Salvador !

St Helena to Salvador Passage: 19th January to 2nd February – 1930 miles

Salvador Stopover- first few days: 2nd to 5th February

Here we are in temperatures reaching 37 degrees with the sounds of Carnival ever present 24 hours a day- at least for the next few days.

The second half of the leg from Cape Town to here was much gentler than the first but our patience in the light winds and minimal engine use helped us to win first prize in the monohull cruising division for the 3650 miles to here from Cape Town.  The news of this was out there faster than we could deliver it with other folks Facebooks etc !

We have still to make a plan for cruising Brazil for the rest of the month, having been at sea for virtually all of January!

In the meantime we are looking forward to a few more days in Salvador, soaking up some carnival atmosphere and perhaps a cruise in the Baia de Todos-os-Santos.

As the internet appears half decent here we may also yet manage to illustrate this blog, though the unillustrated backlog is a now getting bit daunting!

Here are the 7 worldcruising.com logs covering the period.

 

Days 374-376: ” …..a persistent pattern of benign trade winds….

..to continue over the coming three days” said the WRI weather forecast on Wednesday morning- and so it has come to pass!  But today’s forecast says that the “light to  moderate trade winds will ease”.  This we do not want since the 10 to 15 knot winds we have been experiencing are just enough for us to average a reasonable 6 knots on a broad reach with the wind over the port quarter.  First three day’s runs since the start of 141,147 and 141 miles – 1500 miles to Salvador at 15.00 today. Exody is about 90 miles behind the leaders (Makena, Hugur, Aretha, Garlix, Tulasi) and the same from the nearest boat behind (Ayama). We saw one tanker yesterday headed for China but otherwise have the ocean to ourselves.

The seas are calm, the cloud comes and goes clearing to give us some glorious sunny conditions by day and delightful moonlit seas with bright stars at night.  Today Friday 22nd, a couple of squalls passed close by giving a smattering of rain and a spell of 20-24 knot winds.

Life on board ticks over – South African based whodunnits being read, journals written, one dish dinners baked, laptop projects being tackled (David treating himself to on-passage computer time).

 

Days 377,378: “looks like another beautiful day….with no wind!”

….is how Mindy of Wayward Wind and Luis of Allegro summarised the outlook at the end of the radio net this morning.

Exody needs 10 knots of wind to fill the sails when going downwind.  This is just enough to stop the rigging from clattering and the sails from flogging as they empty and fill even in the slightest swell. Today, unfortunately, we have had only 8 knots of wind and are lucky to make even 4 knots through the water.  Our two day’s runs to 15.00 each day have been 132 and 116 nautical miles – passing the third way point this morning on day 5 at sea. Thankfully the forecast is for an increase from Tuesday. All but three of the fleet have succumbed to some engine use – us for just 45 minutes and one for nearly a full day. With 1250 miles to run, we are conserving our 350 miles worth of fuel.

Last night the full moon shone over a cloudless night sky as we gentled along with near daytime visibility.  A ship passed in the distance headed for Panama. Today another on the reciprocal route from the shoulder of Brazil to Cape of Good Hope headed for China passed close across our bow at just one mile off.

The galley rota has recently produced bangers and mash, chicken cacciatore and baked pork chops with pumpkin and apple.  Tonight, we are still waiting for the fish to bite at dusk but otherwise it’s my turn and can creativity will reign.

 

Days 379,380 : Rolling again !

The trade winds have finally freshened a little this morning so after ‘gentling’ along and then, even slower, ‘ghosting’ yesterday we are now making over six knots. Our last two day’s runs have been 116 (again) and 122.  By midnight today Tuesday 26th, our 7th day at sea, we should pass the halfway point with just under a thousand miles to go.

Last night we dropped the clattering main and rigged our loose luffed foresail twinned with the poled out genoa for a quiet night. This morning we have kept these and rehoisted the full main now out to port. With three sails up (unusual for us), Exody is making the most of the 15 knot Force 4 easterly wind directly behind us. F Looks like it will be with us for the next week all the way to Salvador – fingers crossed!

It is good to have Ayama sailing close by but just out of sight ten miles to the south, otherwise the nearest boats are 100 miles away both ahead and behind.

The sun and the moon continue to shine bright in virtually cloudless skies and the deep blue sea remains calm.  We’ve even eaten round the saloon table without having to hold onto our plates and glasses the last two evenings.

Still no fish!

 

Days 380,381: Nibbles on the line

Three times the fishing reel has whirred out and we have run for the gaff and the leather gloves.  Twice we have felt a huge weight on the line that then disappeared.  Miraculously the original lure is still intact so a pair of(probably too large)fish somewhere have cuts in their lips- and we are thus resigned to more cans!

David has just about recovered from oversunning himself a little a couple of days ago, having read his book theoretically in the shade of the sails!  I have finished all six South African crime novels and Marian took time out today from reading and playing the computer at Scrabble to watch Casablanca! David’s stuffed butternut squash went down a treat as we eke out the last of the St Helena fruit and veg.

We have seen no ships for four days and this morning we had Starblazer about 30 miles northwest and Ayama about 40 miles south east of us.  It was good to chat with Ayama on the VHF a couple nights ago when she was closer.

Today Friday 28th, our ninth at sea, we are making much improved progress with the last two day’s runs of 143 and 165 miles.  This evening we have just passed the two thirds mark with under 700 miles to go – and so the countdown begins!  The trades are forecast to stay at the 13-18 knot, Force 4/5 level so we could be in Salvador by very late Monday 1st.  The leaders will make port on Sunday 31st.

Quiet flat seas have given way to a bigger rolling swell. The moon is waning and rising later so the nights are much darker, but by day the sun still shines!

 

Days 382,383: The sky was a study in purple and orange

We often wax lyrical about sunsets but tonight’s was particularly special due, surprisingly, to the extent of the grey cloud.  The cloud canopy was stunningly illuminated from below by the sun after it set turning it purple with orange edges, whilst still leaving glimpses through to blue and white beyond.  The experience perhaps enhanced by two glasses of house red – Ayama Leopard Spot, and appreciation of my bacon, potato and carrot ‘bake’. We dined in the cockpit since the evenings are getting lighter later, and warmer – still 28 degrees as I write at 10pm. Exody is still on GMT whilst Salvador is 3 hours minus- we’ve decided to change our clocks on arrival.

After bottoming out on speeds of under 5 knots nearly a week ago, I reckon we topped out with our last two day’s runs of 170 and 166, averaging about 7 knots.  The conditions have now,as they say,’softened’ so we are down to about 12 knots of wind and 5.5 knots of boat speed – still sailing goose-winged.  With about 335 to run to Salvador today, Saturday 30th, it now looks like we’ll be arriving in daylight Tuesday morning, February 2nd, rather than during Monday night.

Last night we caught and landed a perfectly sized tuna but it was unfortunately infested with little white parasites.  We subsequently read that these are harmless to humans but still glad we threw it back – not very appetising!

 

Days 384,385: Last lap – hot and windless !

The wind has dropped to about 5 knots and the cabin temperature has reached over 33 degrees C as we take the last 90 mile lap to Salvador overnight to arrive early morning.  Everyone is down below staying out of the sun and the heat.

With the lighter conditions our last two days runs have been 146 and 125 miles. Today, Monday 1st February, was our thirteenth at sea and we expect to be in Salvador almost exactly two weeks on from our St Helena start tomorrow, along with Ayama and Starblazer.  Six boats are already in sampling the delights of the city and land- based activities!

Earlier we dropped the main – sounded like it was clattering itself and the rigging to destruction and flew our loose luffed jib with the genoa instead.  With 8/9 knots of wind we were making 4 knots plus – satisfactory!  But not any longer with the reduced wind so, regrettably, the engine is now on. Our engine hours since Cape Town are,or were, only about 12 and keeping them low is not only good for fuel economy and our ears but also for being ‘placed’ in the rankings! There is a factored engine hours penalty added to all boats’ finishing times and typically those with the lower hours place well.

Last night four ships crossed our path all headed northwards – no avoiding action needed since nearest was 2.5 miles at closest point of approach – although that does seem very close at night! Kept the watchkeepers on their toes whilst I slept.

Exody was radio net controller today for the third time this leg – the reception or propagation has not been that good and it is all we can do to secure a complete roll call, let alone have time for quizzes, chats, poetry and banter – pity!

Culinary standards remain high- chinese stir fry mainly from cans and dried stuff last night followed by pineapple(canned), peach(dried) and orange(fresh) steeped in port;  home made smoked salmon and cream cheese pate for lunch.

Next log from Brazil

 

Days 385-388: First place into Salvador !

Chuffed at last night’s prizegiving event to win our first World ARC first for this, the longest leg. So tolerating the slatting sails and keeping the engine off during the second part of the leg from St Helena paid off! We had a total of only 17.5 engine hours for the 3650 miles since Cape Town – just two jerry cans of diesel. The event was put on by local sponsors and we all wore their purpose designed teeshirts, drank Caipirinhas, ate tasty local snack foods with shrimp and were entertained with a small live band and local Capoeira  dancers – based on the martial arts.

The last night at sea on Monday 1st brought the loom of Salvador from over 50 miles as we sailed gently to make landfall in daylight under dark grey clouds.  These thankfully brought us good wind for the final early morning approach with rows of skyscrapers and apartment blocks along the shoreline with beaches in front. We took the route inside the shoals passing close inshore and noticed one beach absolutely full of folk and sunshades at 07.00 hours – early morning exercise, carnival preparations ?? Crossing the finish line off the Barra light house at 8am Tuesday 2nd, we were soon rounding the 17th century Fort de Sao Marcelo to find our berth at the marina.  We are just inside the large Baia de Todos-os-Santos: 1200 square kilometers of potential cruising ground for us before we head north for Fortaleza.

It was amazing to be catapulted into the sheer busy-ness and vibrancy of pre carnival preparations here in this large city.  We are moored very near to the old heart – just  a ride up the Elevador Lacerda – with its historic buildings and churches. It’s still quite a culture shock for us even after several oceans and landfalls – this contrast to the solitude of our own 200 square miles of ocean.

We found a restaurant in the old town the first night.  Live music, bands passing down the streets practising and folk everywhere moving to the music – a good atmosphere.  David has been out two further evenings and witnessed the tightly packed crowds following the bands and the music – deafeningly loud from the trios electricos: fully fitted trucks with speakers,amps and performers – Glastonbury-like sound stages crawling through confined city streets. Also the pickpocket activity- he reckons a hand was in his pocket five times that he was aware of!  One skipper had his iphone snatched from his hand.  So all the warnings and advice given are being well heeded.

We have lunched twice at a business people’s buffet place nearby- since we are in the commercial district. You pay by the weight on your plate- a great concept, good value and tasty fresh food.  Local shops, chandlery and hardware have been sought out and fruit stalls found nearby.  Supermarkets are unfortunately a taxi ride away and we did our first run to Perini today.

Our genoa has been packed off to Eduardo the sailmaker for ‘stitch in time’ repairs to reinforcement patches, sun protection etc- he will not touch it until after Carnival next week but it is in the queue! Thankfully, no other major jobs required on Exody.

The official city tour today, Friday 5th, took us on foot through the characterful Pelourinho (old town) seeing a fantastically ornate church and much activity on the streets in final carnival preparations including costume making and fitting.  After two hours on foot, a most welcome air-conditioned bus took us on to view the city lake, the 2014 World Cup stadium and another church (there are supposed to be 365 in total here mostly catholic) where we were lucky to see a service in progress.

We find this large city of 3 million people really quite difficult to ‘read’ and navigate so I am pleased not to be trying to drive whilst here!  The street pattern is the exact opposite of gridiron- winding , snaking roads everywhere, reflecting perhaps the gradual incremental development and merging of communities over the hilly terrain.