Journey’s End

Faroes to Scotland Passage: August 8th to 11th – 389 miles

Scotland mini-cruise: August 13th to 15th (Dunstaffnage, Ardinamir, Crinan Canal, Loch Riddon, Rhu) – 90 miles

Exody was tied back up in glorious sunshine at Rhu Marina on Monday August 15th, 38,000 miles and two years, one month, one day since leaving.

A week later we were immersed in an alien yet at the same time increasingly familiar world reacclimatising to our former ‘home’.  Living in a huge space, tackling a slightly overgrown garden, setting up utilities and phones, buying a car, unpacking boxes of ‘stuff’ that somehow we had not missed. Reconnecting with friends, neighbours and family.

The final five days since our last emailed log from sea (see below) were full of highs: family reunions, warm sunny days, getting to ‘land home’ –  and of lows: apparently serious engine problems, wet windy days, leaving our ‘Exody home’.

Knocked off course by headwinds after passing North Rona and Sula Sgeir, we tacked motorsailing in heavy rain, both mainland Scotland and the Isle of Lewis close yet invisible in the grey cloud.  By nightfall, the wind had dropped so it was under power we approached the Inner Sound inside Skye and Rona in complete blackness, guided between the lights at the north end of (south) Rona and Rubha Reidh then Applecross on the mainland.   I came on watch as we approached the Skye Bridge at first misty grey 04.00 light.  We were very relieved to then just catch the tail of the favourable tide south through the narrows at Kyle Rhea taking us into the relatively protected waters of the Sound of Sleat.  Green and spectacular scenery all the more dramatic for being cloaked in cloud.  Hugging the Skye coast, we dodged trawlers and ferries before clearing the Point of Sleat and picking up the southwesterly wind, close hauling Exody toward unseen Ardnamurchan ahead.  Passing close by Eigg in the mist, and falling off enough to leeward to see the Bo Faskadale buoy.  The iron genny provided a little upwind assistance to carry us very close by Sanna bay and Ardnamurchan point as the yachting traffic out of  busy Tobermory increased.

The tide carried us on down the Sound of Mull, past Lismore and Lady Rock as we made our final decision to make our landfall with the convenience of a pontoon visitor berth at Dunstaffnage.  Formal clearance back in to the UK was simply achieved with one telephone call to the ‘Yachtline’ number. Bucketing heavily again, we had time for showers ashore before the family arrived, braving the rain and the apparent maze of pontoons to find us.   My brother John with family, from nearby Duror, and sister Hilary from Devon (diverted from her original plan to join us in Stornoway) came on board bearing welcome goodies for our first Scotland reunion at about 21.00 on Thursday 11th August.

Our original crazy plan to leave later that same night to catch the tide for a Crinan rendezvous in the morning was very soon abandoned in favour of a good night’s sleep, especially having heard the bleak weather forecast.   We traded Petter, who left with John and family, for Hilary- now with us for the last leg to the Clyde.

As we slept our daughter Tessa was already en route north by sleeper train from London.  Our friends the Toys kindly agreed to deliver her north from Glasgow to Dunstaffnage, arriving mid afternoon Friday, bearing welcome gifts and banners, just as I returned from a round trip by bus to visit my Mum in Ballachulish.   Good to see her so much more mobile than my last visit in April.   Stewart and Catherine Toy had stepped off the boat over a year ago, and half a world away, on the island of Vanuatu in the Pacific so it was great to catch up with them and of course to see Tessa who we’d seen just three months ago in New York.

Now with two new crew, we had made a plan to leave on that evening’s tide since the weather looked better but Exody had different ideas – her engine would not turn or start!  Diagnosing a faulty starter I soon discovered we also had water in the engine oil so we were ‘grounded’ – or the maritime equivalent for however long it took to fix.

Before dinner I was pleased to excavate for the first time my extremely well travelled brand new spare starter motor- only to find the cogs on the drive were wrong!   Stewart noticed a tired-looking ad posted at the marina for a brand new Volvo Starter motor and, amazingly, the part numbers matched. By the end of a good dinner ashore at the Frog, I had coordinated with the seller to meet first thing in the morning.

Saturday morning the starter motor was soon fitted, the engine oil pumped out, flushed and flushed again with the kind loan from Alba of their electric oil pump.  By early afternoon we were good to go and already at the fuel dock before Hilary returned from her local walk.

We took off south in the light conditions , mostly motoring down Loch Linnhe making spectacular and familiar Cuan Sound just before the tide turned.  This had been a memorable landmark on my first ever cruise with Hilary as crew 42 years ago.  We anchored in Ardinamir as the only cruising yacht and enjoyed a quiet peaceful night in beautiful surroundings.

Sunday 14th up early to catch the south going tide to arrive at Crinan for opening time – we had barely ten minutes to wait before the sealock was closed.  A swift passage through on a fine quiet day as a ‘singleton’ boat with our own competent shore crew, assistance from lock-keepers and some friendly passers by.  Sailing down Loch Fyne by early afternoon we passed close by the Toy’s boat Out of the Blue, with former crews David (South Atlantic) and Douglas + Leo (Spanish Rias) on board, and another Serpent Yacht Club boat Emma Louise.

The delightful passage round Ardlamont point, up the West Kyle of Bute and on into attractive Loch Riddon made us really appreciate that our Scottish cruising grounds are right up there with the best we have seen on our long trip.  Moored for the night on a borrowed mooring, it was a pleasure to share the delights of life on board with wife, sister and daughter.

Monday we set off for the last leg down the East Kyle to the Firth of Clyde on another fine day, crossing our outbound route for the first time in about 38,000 miles as we made our final approach to tie up at Rhu Marina.

 

Preceding all this and to ‘patch’ the continuity from the last blog to this one, here is the one email missive sent on our final approach to Scotland.

August 10th – Home Waters !

North Rona to port and Sula Sgeir (bird-cloud visible at 3 miles) to starboard stood sentinel as we motorsailed briefly into and back out of UK waters early this morning, about 35 miles north of the Butt of Lewis and the Minch.  Soon we heard the familiar tones of Stornoway Coastguard on the VHF and, to complete the homecoming experience – grey clouds, rain and south southwesterly headwinds to knock us off course toward Lochinver!

At noon today Wednesday, 208 miles and 36 hours out from Torshavn midnight Monday, we have about 170 miles to run to a planned family rendezvous in Loch Linnhe late Thursday and, before that, 85 to make our tidal ‘gate’ at Kyleakin under the Skye Bridge.  The going under closehauled mainsail and iron genoa is slow at barely 5 knots.  But the wind is set to veer westerly and increase this afternoon when we hope to point Exody under full sail due south toward the other Rona, north of Raasay ‘inside’ Skye.

Sunday night in Torshavn, we convened at the classy Hafna Hotel for the premiere showing of a four-minute feature film directed by Boris the Cat of Lily.  Under his direction Ron and Ineke have professionally assembled and put to music some stunning footage and stills of our fleet tackling the ice of Greenland. We repaired upstairs for the set menu dinner, our last together before we go our separate ways.

With the wind still blowing hard Monday morning, the weather was much brighter, blustery and showery. The forecast for an easing of the wind in the evening helped make our mind up to leave that midnight. The rest of our fleet and at least three other boats holed up with us in Torshavn opted to leave the following day.  We returned to the Volvo place to get our VAT back, deposit our changed engine oil and walked on to the small SMS mall for coffee and supermarket shop. Back on board we entertained Seafar (Brian and Eric) and Dill (Boris – not the cat- this one a German actor and son Anatol) for sundowners, between us consuming the last of our alcohol – just beer and whisky – for prohibitive prices meant that we had bought none since Canada!  

Slipping our lines in the dark at 23.30 Monday 8th, we found first one then a second self-service automated diesel pump inoperable so topped up from our three remaining jerrycans and set off with the favourable tide.  Conditions were much quieter than we had expected and Exody was soon making good way downwind under genny alone with the north north westerly wind and the tide lifting us southwards. Passing Nolsoy to port, Sandoy, the hulks of Store Dimon and Lille Dimon and finally Suyderoy.   

Yesterday the beautiful brisk conditions, white crested waves and large swells gradually diminished until we put the engine on at 23.00 when the wind died.  The day was clear and sunny, few clouds and great visibility – carrying on through the short night with dramatic and colourful sunset and sunrise.

Waiting for the Weather !

Iceland Stopover: Reykjavik; 21st to 25th July

Iceland Northabout Cruise:  Isafjordur, Akureyri, Seydisfjordur; 585 miles; July 25th to August 1st

Iceland to Faroes Passage:  Seydisfjordur to Torshavn; 289 miles;  August 1st to 3rd

Faroes Stopover: Torshavn; 3rd to 7th August

 

Reykjavik

 

Faroes

Arctic Circle

Here we are at Torshavn, Faroe Islands, so near to home – only 230 miles to Stornoway – but patiently waiting for the weather to do the right thing as the lows march across the North Atlantic.  In the last fortnight we continued to enjoy Iceland with our stopover and land-based tour at Akureyri and kept trucking on our northabout cruise stopping at Seydisfjordur for only 13 hours.  We have said our goodbyes to the fleet and said hello again as they caught us up here. We have welcomed returning crew Petter on board but have sadly had to cancel our planned rendezvous with my sister Hilary in Stornoway.

The Faroes, with their dramatic geography akin to multiple St Kildas are clean tidy, very Scandinavian and appear prosperous. Facilities are great including showers, laundry and fast free internet so it’s not a bad place at all to stop awhile before our last leg home. We’ve done some culture and some walking here in the glorious sunshine before the rain came in. It was great to have the opportunity as first boat in to provide ‘welcome packs’ for our small fleet.

Looks like we should be away again tomorrow, fingers crossed for the low passing through quickly and we’ll likely keep going as long as weather and tides permit toward our planned family rendezvous somewhere between Loch Linnhe and Crinan.

Here are our three most recent posts:

 

July 25th – Geysir, Glacier, Hospitality, Warranty, Wildlife, Sluts

Monday evening and we are headed northwest towards iconic cloud-covered Snaefellsjokull (snay-fells-yokutd) actually over 1200 metres rather than 850 as previously noted – clearly visible 40 miles away. This the first landmark on our northabout journey around Iceland- initial stop Isafjord 180 miles from Reykjavik where we slipped our lines in the drizzle at 13.30 today.  For now conditions are benign with enough wind to make the sails helpful to the engine. The skies are clear and the grey rain clouds are staying a safe distance astern.  But northerly then northeasterly winds are anticipated in our face later on when we turn 30 degrees to starboard and tomorrow when we do the same again. We were treated to about a dozen whales within two hours of leaving – fin, humpback and we think even orcas.  Puffins and other familiar seabirds abound.  The rest of the fleet are three to six hours behind, but will almost certainly catch us up and overtake us.

Our arrival from Greenland across the same stretch of water last Thursday morning, 21st July, was not fun.  For the last 30 miles into Akranes, we motored directly into a 15 to 20 knot wind with a nasty chop and heavy rain.  Our autopilot had given up completely so we took turns 90 minutes apiece to hand steer.  A fishing boat came over to check we were OK as Exody pitched up and down making progress sometimes as slow as 3 knots toward our goal.  The wind backed a little for the last few miles enabling us to roll out a little genny and gain 2 knots of boat speed for our final approach in pouring rain.  Tied up to the pontoon by 8.30, the young customs officers aboard to clear us by 10.30, we were whisked ashore by 12 for a whistlestop tour of this, Kristofer and Svanfridur’s home town.  Delightful lunch with Greta (Anna of Ayama’s sister) and Christian (Ayama Indian Ocean crew).  Greta had knitted a fine Icelnadic cardigan for Marian and Christian, a fisherman, publisher, translator and some time author gave us a couple of interesting books. By 15.00 we were all back on board to slip lines and ‘process’ behind Hugur to Reykjavik’s Brokey Yacht Club marina where club members, family, friends and the Hugur’s hotel employees gave a rousing welcome at 17.00 – the bubbly and beer flowed!  Our berths here are right in the middle of town, in front of the stunning Harpa music/performance centre with its curiously angled and coloured windows – a successful collaboration between sculptor and architect. With all this sapping the very last of our energy for Thursday, we slept whilst the others wined, dined and ‘pub crawled’ a sample of the Hugur hotels until the early hours.

It has been a whirlwind of generous hospitality at respective Centerhotels venues organised by all of K&S’s family – we breakfast at a different hotel each day and have use of the showers and spa facilities. Our laundry including seawater-wet duvets are laundered and returned within hours.  A fuel truck is organised to the dock, SIM cards are bought and delivered to us. Most importantly for Exody, a Raymarine agent is sourced to tackle our inoperative autopilot.  We discover ours to be less than three weeks out of its two year warranty but, after a bit of pleading, Raymarine did the right thing accepting the 900 Euro repair cost in full. Its all fixed and sea-trialled by lunchtime Friday – before Marian even got back from her massage and spa! Much relieved by our release from the prospect of more hand-steering, and well slept, we are up for dinner out with the fleet on Friday. Saturday we explore the charming city- very busy with tourists and a ‘slut’ demonstration parade. We dine on barbecued lamb at Hugur’s bricks and mortar (ie as oppsed to floating) home in the evening – some go in the garden hot tub.

Sunday is tourist day. We have a special all day tour in a steroid injected large-wheeled jeep taking us through the surprisingly green and fertile terrain (our previous perception was all grey moonscape – which is how it is between the airport and the famous blue lagoon hot baths – all that many stopover visitors see). The volcanic mountains are of course grey to black with white snow patches.  Icelandic horses everywhere, many more trees than we expected, summerhouses and farms. The vistas within the national park area we traverse are long and magnificent, a little reminiscent of South Africa.  Our goal is the Langjokull glacier where we are suited, booted, waterproofed and helmeted before taking to snowmobiles following our guide across the gentle slopes at about 30 kilometres per hour – its noisy but fun!  The melting edge of the glacier is characterised by what look like black molehills, conical piles of volcanic ash left by the melting ice.  We are shown a seriously deep crevass, as a vivid reinforcement of the guide’s instructions to stay in line!  After pizza lunch at a campsite restaurant, we stop at the Stokkur Geysir, the Gullfos waterfall and finally the Secret Lagoon natural hot baths – here they also farm tomatoes, mushrooms and other vegetable in large greenhouses, heated by the natural hot spring water that is ubiquitous in Iceland. Everywhere we stop, our outsized vehicle is photographed.  We make it back to the Harpa only just in time for the recommended and hilarious one man comedy show ‘How to Become an Icelander in 60 minutes’.

Today Monday, we do our breakfast and shower thing – this time at the Pingholt hotel. Marian finds a walk-in hairdresser and I have time for a coffee at the oldest cafe in Reykjavik. The last on account of the supermarkets not opening until 11 on weekdays! We have not found things as outrageously expensive as anticipated.  Clothing and supermarket foodstuffs seem to be on a par or maybe up to 10% different as do coffees and snacks in some places. Dining out and alcoholic drinks however are typically 50% more expensive but the food seems consistently good. Berthing and diesel costs less than UK.

 

July 31st – Isafjordur, Akureyri, Arctic Circle

Sunday lunchtime, the morning sun that saw us crossing the Arctic Circle at 07.40 has gone and we are now motoring southeastwards through grey cloudy drizzle toward Langanes, the northeast tip of Iceland – we are over halfway through the 208 mile third of our long northabout Iceland legs.  Making only five knots into the lumpy seas and light headwinds, we are hoping the forecast northerlies come soon.  We left Akureyri at 15.00 yesterday for the 30 mile haul motoring upwind out of the fjord.  We are bound for Seydisfjordur on the east coast where we’ll meet our crew Petter who flew into Reykjavik yesterday.  Our own homecoming and crew schedule has sadly driven us to split with our ARCtic fleet, leaving the three boats behind to their family, business and social commitments.  Although we have skipped two of the originally planned stops in Iceland, we do hope they’ll catch us up in the Faroes.  We were keen to move on just as soon as the weather permitted.

It has been an eventful week!  Just after our last log, the engine stopped two thirds the way to Isafjordur from Reykjavik, coinciding with the headwinds piping up.  We got it started back but then eventually had to jury rig the same temporary fuel supply that brought us from the Delaware River through New York to Newport. We took several long, wet tacks under double reefed sails into the mouths of the fjords between the ten fingers that make up the large hand-shape that reaches out from northwest Iceland – putting in an extra 30 miles altogether.  The geography here is large scale- all steep sided buttresses, flat topped with patches of snow and cascading pencil-thin waterfalls.  Our long haul upwind and then through the channel into the sheltered lagoon at Isafjordur finished at about 00.30 Wednesday morning – 211 miles in 35 hours.  Rafted up at a visitors pontoon, we slept very well before an early start when Stefan of Ayama came with his 12 volt compressor to help clean our fuel lines. We discovered some residual diesel bug sludge which must have caused the problem.  Also found a well worn fuel line on the engine and found a fantastic old-time engineering workshop nearby where a new one was made -up before coffee time.

The fleet were off again by 12.15 Wednesday for the 20 miles across the fjord to anchor at the old village and former whaling station at Hesteyri.  The cafe in the former doctors house hosted our impromptu birthday party for Stefan’s 63rd – bubbly, pancakes and coffee.  It was great to walk amongst the grass and other greenery, to see a young wild fox, and to pick rhubarb.

Anchors were raised at 17.00 for the 165 miles to Akureyri, Anna of Ayama’s home town and Iceland’s second city. As we motored toward the mouth of yet another fjord, the anticipated strong winds of yesterday wrapping around the headlands had disappeared and we had gentle seas with sunshine then seafog as we rounded the remaining ‘fingers’ of northwest Iceland.  There was a foul current for several hours reducing speeds to under 5 knots but by 7.30 Thursday morning there was enough wind for Exody to sail close hauled, eventually bearing away downwind for the 30 miles to the head of the Eyjafjordur.  We all reckoned we had got off lightly compared to the upwind struggle of the last leg!  Looking at the chart en route it read like an IKEA catalogue – ‘Adhalvik’, ‘Skagi’, ‘Malmey’, ‘Tangar’ -now I know what inspired their product names.  On final approach a cruise ship passed close on its way out, whale watching craft zoomed and chugged  and we saw a waterfall of steamy water gushing into the fjord – later learnt this last was inconveniently discovered whilst constructing a road tunnel.  At Akureyri, we tied up all in a line at the brand new visitors pontoon in front of the circular Hof arts and performance centre.  As ever Hugur had organised a table – this time at an Italian.

Friday was another tourist day. Rikki, new crew on Hugur, drove 12 of us in a hired minibus. He, Kristofer and his friend Oscar provided knowledgeable commentary as we visited powerful waterfalls, an extraordinary lava ‘park’ – similar to the flooded lava tunnels we’d seen in Galapagos, spectacular steam jets, sulphur springs and boiling mud pools.  All this amongst a richly varied geography of inland lakes, green fields contrasting with grey brown ash craters.  Long vistas, backdrops of black mountains and snow.  We finished, totally relaxed, after a hot outdoor bath – 29 degrees natural hot water (after cooling), 11 degrees air temperature.  Everywhere was busy with tourists of all nationalities – enjoying the striking elemental nature of Iceland.

Yesterday, Saturday, having made our decision to leave, we were busy with provisioning at the excellent supermarket, filling water and tackling some administrative tasks.  It’s worth noting how fantastically easy (compared to nearly everywhere else) and surprisingly good(ie given the geography) – the internet and phone coverage is here. One SIM card on one of our phones set up as a hotspot, £20 credit and we have had 3G coverage for nearly all of our time here even many miles offshore.  Also took time to walk through the small town with its Saturday morning markets, taking a coffee and absorbing the Icelandic atmosphere. Finally gifts were received and fond embraces exchanged with our special two-year sailing buddies.  We’ll see them all again and will stay in contact for now by radio.

 

August 7th: new crew, missed sister, Faroes, ARCtic fleet reunite

Once again I have left it too long to write as the impressions and experiences of the last week overlap and collide!

Its Sunday 7th and we are snugged up at the well appointed small visitors pontoon in Torshavn capital of the Faroe Islands.  Arrived here Wednesday 3rd just before midnight after a 50 hour, 300 mile passage from Seydisfjordur, Iceland. A well forecast low with storm  force winds is approaching and should be past by tomorrow allowing us to make tracks south and homeward, late on our programme, tomorrow Monday 8th.  New crew Petter joined us in Seydisfjordur, our planned rendezvous with my sister Hilary in Stornoway has had to be cancelled and the ARCtic fleet is now reunited as the other three boats arrived here yesterday.

The wind came as we rounded close by the the exposed Langanes headland last Sunday and turned southeast.  We enjoyed a good seven hour sail with the wind well behind the beam, reminding ourselves of the required downwind sailing techniques – boom prevented etc.  We have been sailing upwind or motoring for three months ever since USA! By 21.00 the engine was on again as we began to close the steep entrance to the fjords, with a dramatic entry into green Seydisfjordur, cruise ship Marco Polo out of Leith ahead of us, Berlin behind.  Moored 07.00 to an abandoned ferry terminal with its aging timber boards and unfriendly big ship tyres, Petter soon finds us from his overnight three bedroom apartment.  The passage was 209 miles, taking 40 hours, over 80% under power.  Mingling with the cruise ship visitors,some of whom make their way to see us as the one visiting yacht, we hear many Scottish accents- one quipping “this places makes the outer isles seem positively frenetic”. Its a public holiday this Monday but everything is open for the ships.  We lunch at the bar, shop in the supermarket, buy oil at the gas station and after his business with the cruise ships is done when the second leaves at 16.30, Johann, the friendly harbourmaster fills our diesel tanks.

The forecast is fair so we are off by 20.00 the same day, Monday 1st, for the 289 miles to the Faroe Islands, our passage plan carefully timed to arrive with the ‘ferocious’ tides favourable.  There is no wind at all as we motor over an oily flat sea, climbing up and down over large swells, noticing the light nights already shortening as we track southward.  With our third crew, we both relish longer six hour offwatch breaks and sleeps. By noon on Tuesday we have the sails up, mostly on a close reach through to midnight, then again  virtually all day Wednesday until we lose the wind in the Djupene, Leirvickfjord, the gap between Stremoy and Esturoy.  The islands appear with outcrops resembling St Kilda and dramatic fjords like Iceland but very much greener.  Several settlements cluster around the handful of harbours and heads of fjords.  We were early on our timing by 90 minutes and the tides are moderately against us as we make our way in – 28 miles from the entrance waypoint to Torshavn.  It is fairly dark as we hail the harbourmaster and make our final approach right into the corner of the harbour, only the masts of other cruisers amongst the mutliple smallcraft convincing us it was the right place.  We are tied up by 23.30 local time Wednesday 3rd next to a couple of cafes, below the Cathedral right in the middle of town , some late night revellers still on their way home. The crew, particularly Petter who vowed not to eat again until tied up, enjoy my frittata/omelette before hitting the sack.

Thursday morning we walk through the historic Tinganes, houses all blackboarded, green turf-roofed and timber guttered.  Red painted details, winding alleyways , steps and virtually no cars. An interesting shortcut to the harbourmaster and customs offices where we clear in, routing back via the Tourist Information and Bank.  Everything here is very neat, proper and clean- very Scandinavian.  Especially the brand new marina facilities, three compact wetroom shower/toilets with adjacent twin laundry facilities – all of which used with great pleasure.  On dock the electricity efficiently organised with paycards, water hoses next to the boat and a comprehensive information board. Pretty good for 100DKr a night (Ł9).  I find the hardware store and Volvo agent/chandlery buying new seals for our leaky sea water pump.  Trying to DIY-fit them later I am soon out of my depth so next morning the large and busy MEST shipyard help me out on their busy Friday, the mechanical workshop rebuilding the pump complete with new bearings before lunch.

Hugur is first in about 12 noon on Friday, followed by Ayama an hour later, Lily in the late afternoon.  We have sourced Faroes flags for them all to which Petter has added lanyards. These plus local maps, UK customs forms and an Exody produced info sheet make up their welcome packs. Exody (rarely first in port) pleased to take on the ‘yellowshirt’ role for the unexpectedly reunited fleet. We dine together later at a Fawlty Towers (called Marco Polo see trip advisor) restaurant with a nightcap at an adjacent cafe- our numbers now up from eight to twelve.

Saturday, sunny and bright, we enjoyed a free organ recital Petter had found at the nearby Havna Kirkja (Cathedral). Rikki and Snorri of Hugur invite us to join them for a taxi ride to the historic church and village, Kirkjubour at the south tip of Stremoy and to walk back.  Rikki regretted taking advice from the taxi driver rather than the map and we took rather longer than expected to return. Climbing up steeply and then cross country rather off-piste for about 4 hours.  The conditions underfoot were dry, the views fantastic and for the latter part we were making our way over a lunar landscape of rocky outcrops before descending, thankfully, to a tarmac road for the last mile.  Petter meanwhile still at the cafe with another capuccino and his pipe minding Exody.  We joined Brian Black and Eric on Seafar, a robust Voyager 35, for convivial sundowners. Brian a serial Greenland sailing visitor and TV producer, film-maker/photographer from Northern Ireland who had written some of the Arctic sailing articles Stefan had shared with our fleet.

Now, Sunday lunchtime, the heavy rain has stopped for a spell presumably as the centre of the low passes close over the Faroes and it looks like we might actually get outside for a spell before the wind shifts, increases and blows north to northwest – just what we need to make Scotland.

 

 

Northern Waters Conquered !

Newfoundland to Greenland Passage: Quirpon to Qaqortoq – July 3rd to 7th – 715 miles

Greenland Cruise: Qaqortoq: Nanortalik, Prinscristianssund, Kuugarmiut – July 8th to 16th – 175 miles

Greenland to Iceland Passage :  July 16th to 21st: 675 miles

We have made it safe and sound across some of the trickiest waters to navigate in the world – the combination of ice and weather can be treacherous.  For Exody and our ‘ARCtic’ fleet of four boats, however, it has been relatively benign and, whilst we have had some uncomfortable days, it has for the most part been a fantastic northern experience, with the rich rewards of the dramatic geography of Greenland , wildlife at sea and the prospect of exploring Iceland.

I write this on Friday 22nd July from Reykjavik at the Brokey Yacht Club, berthed with the backdrop of the stunning Henning Larsen designed Opera House.  Enjoying warm hospitality from our companions on Icelandic boat Hugur, owners of the Centerhotels group and hosts in Iceland, we have shared basking in their glory as celebrated Icelandic circumnavigators.  More on that in a subsequent blog but, in the meantime, here are our seven reports over the last three weeks.

We will leave here probably Monday 25th for a 600 mile northabout Iceland cruise, thence to the Faeroes en route for Stornoway in the Outer Hebrides.

 

July 6th – Labrador Lows

As our third day on the Labrador Sea dawns – though it barely gets dark at all, we have turned the corner both practically and emotionally. We spent the last 24 hours close hauled crashing north then west in a curve around the west of an unpleasant low. We avoided the worst of it but 25 knots of wind and cold white or rather grey water repeatedly over the deck is definitely not fun – ‘get me out of here’ territory!  The menacing cold water seems to have found its way inside to places that were previously dry.  That and the condensation when we run our heater make it decidedly damp.  But late this afternoon the skies cleared to blue, the wind eased and backed allowing us to tack to starboard and lay a course directly for Qaqortoq 300 miles away – the spirits are lifted! We should make it by late Thursday.

Exody and the fleet departed Quirpon harbour, Newfoundland 06.15 Sunday 3rd July slipping our government wharf berth and disappearing, with some trepidation, into the thick fog.  Visibility was about a quarter mile so enough to see and avoid growlers and bergy bits, of which we saw two close in shore.  Not enough to see icebergs at range but, thankfully and in spite of the fog forecast, the visibility improved revealing first one massive flat-topped iceberg a few miles away and then later a smaller pinnacled one. Sailing in the moderate southeasterly breeze we were across the iceberg alley of about 100 miles within daylight, three boats taking a ‘perpendicular’ crossing, Hugur taking the more direct oblique route – they found another berg complete with bits and growlers! The main passage is ice free- though not guaranteed as such so we keep a lookout as best we can and by radar at night.

Seas were moderate and the sailing good for the first 36 hours as we settled into a routine of cold life on board.  I doubt we’ll be undressing until we get to Greenland – our layering systems working well.  The heater generally goes on at the changes of watch, the engine for an hour or two in the middle of the night for charging. Just like home, we have shut the door on the unheated rooms (f’o’c’sle and heads)and are religious about closing the hatch and the washboard to avoid drafts.

By Monday night and two hundred miles out the wind had started to freshen and to back. Before long we were down to treble reefed main and genny, still making over 6 knots.  Our first two day’s runs were 169 and 159 miles.  The camaraderie of connecting by SSB radio four times a day is a reassuring routine.  On the very first morning, whilst still within sight and VHF range, Lily and Exody heaved to whilst Ayama dealt with a fishing net and rope they’d caught.  The rope is still with them, pulled taut out of the way of the prop – to be sorted in port.

As I write, 03.00 Wednesday, the sound of birds takes me outside, not birds but the squeaks of a large pod of what we think are pilot whales – pretty big anyway with bullnose heads- a bit like the melon head whales we’d seen in Nuku Hiva.  They are following the boat, ‘wake -riding’ us closely for at least an hour rather than playing at the bow! There has also been much seabird life.

We have left the big whales behind, our having enjoyed been amongst dozens of them relishing their abundant Newfoundland feeding grounds.

 

July 7th: Ice !

First the Nunarssit peninsula 50 miles to the north this Thursday morning, then a couple hours later our first Greenland icebergs several miles away to north and south.  Now, at 3 o’clock we have just over 40 miles to run to Qaqortoq, a fishing harbour within the Juliannehaabsfjord. We have been motoring continuously since 11.30am yesterday, though the sails are both up giving us a little lift from the very light northwesterly breeze.  We are now in high pressure so the sun breaks through, the visibility is fantastic and we have been seeing snowclad mountains getting nearer.  Hugur is in port, Kristofer helpfully sorting things out for us – we’ll berth where a cruise ship is due to leave, and a fuel truck delivery plus restaurant booking for tomorrow are already organised. Ayama and Lily were both about ten miles ahead of us at the 09.00 roll call. Our last two day’s runs were 142 and 148 miles.  By the time we finish we will have clocked up 100 miles more than the rhumb line.

Yesterday our precious and now deeply respected Eberspacher heater stopped working. Respect I might say that has not been rewarded until now with appropriate loving care and maintenance attention.  So this morning I set about a little troubleshooting – after a clean of the fuel pump,filter and glowplug, it is up and running again.  Yesterday the outside temperature reached the balmy heights of 15, but the lows at night are about 7.  The need to keep a constant ice-watch means we can not hide inside at length as we might in a different sea! The larger bergs show up on radar but the bergy bits (1m-5m height) and growlers (under 1 m height) do not. We feel completely blessed to have a clear day and flat seas and near total 24 hour daylight to make this potentially dangerous final approach.

Greenland take care of their maritime visitors, requiring all vessels to report in at 250 miles range and then every 6 hours thereafter until in port – if Arctic Command, as they are known, have not heard within 30 minutes of the appointed hour, then they try to make contact and if unsuccessful launch the Search and Rescue services.  Iceland has a similar protocol- reassuring. So we have our alarms set and the emails go off on the button.

Yesterday the pilot whales came back in large numbers- 30 to 50 and behind the boat for hours.  Today a large whale surfaced very nearby with a distinctive round head – maybe a northern bottlenose?

I finish this at 7 after my watch and we now have just 12 miles to go. We’ve passed several icebergs now, one spectacular at close quarters – we’ve seen them in the mags but nothing prepared us for the glorious aquamarine colour as the sea laps the base and the ‘stubble’ of birds perching along ridges and surfaces – amazing colour and texture to add to the superb natural sculptures.  Marian is now negotiating the smaller bergy bits on our way into the fjord and we are looking forward to a good night’s sleep – together and at the same time!

 

July 10th: Qaqortoq- whale meat, cruise ships, the Thai eskimo.

Sunday noon and we are halfway between Qaqortoq and Nanortalik, motoring in convoy the 50 miles southeast over calm seas with little wind.  The skies are cloudy, sun breaking through and visibility is good.  Its risen from 10 to 15 degrees since our 07.30 start this morning, after three nights in port.  I am seated on the bridge deck, legs inside, warmed by the flow of heated air from the cabin below.  The grey to black mountainous coastline to the east has pockets of snow or ice as we pass dramatic fjord after fjord – Ijaliko, Lichtenau, Uunartoq.  We have passed several icebergs and many smaller pieces are marooned off the outlying islets and skerries, some breaking up to give us some growlers to avoid.

We rafted alongside Lily at the root of the main pier at Qaqortoq on Thursday evening about 21.15, completing the 715 mile leg from Newfoundland in 4 days and 15 hours, averaging 6.4 knots and having motored the last 34 hours.  It was great to be in port! We were just a couple of hours after Lily and Ayama, Hugur having arrived  03.00.  Two large icebergs guarded the harbour entrance, colourful timber boarded houses lining the hillside and a handful of the universally red and white painted fishing boats moored.  We are next to a small boat jetty where there is much traffic to and fro with baggage and farewells.  We turned in early for a long sleep, interrupted only by the knocking on the hull of the customs officer at 08.00 Friday morning.  We’d been told to report in to the post office at 10 but he was on duty for the large cruise ship that had arrived overnight. The forms were soon filled in and counsel given to a) avoid the post office that day as the cruise ship would be buying every stamp en masse and b) if confronted by a polar bear remember they are left handed – ie so you know from which side the knock-out blow will be delivered!  As in several places now, we are able to find publicly funded electricity on the dock and also to berth for free. The fuel truck organised by Hugur was next up and we were soon refuelled 135 litres for us 200+ for Lily, 400+ for Ayama and 700+ for Hugur.

It was a glorious warm day on Friday, temperatures reaching 17 degrees, everyone sitting outside the one local cafe.  We checked out the fuel station cum chandlery (rifles for sale over the counter!), the fish market- selling mainly deep red whale meat and blubber, a small bakery and convenience store and finally the supermarkets.  Well stocked if pricy- not that we needed that much as we are trying to run down the stocks on board. Although patronising them for drinks, the cafe declined to give us their internet access code and we have not found any alternative here.  After happy hour on Lily – a very fine, carefully thought through and fully equipped maritime home by Amel, we repaired to the local Thai restaurant located rather incongruously within the harbour shed buildings.  One of just three places to eat in town, we are intrigued by the patron’s tale of emigration from Thailand to Greenland following a short term hotel contract 15 years ago – he was known as the Thai eskimo. Greenland has only 57,000 inhabitants, mostly Inuit in origin, the country heavily financially supported by Denmark. Currency is the Danish Kroner.

Saturday dawned cloudy and rainy, prompting us to tackle some onboard inside jobs- backing up photos, cleaning, route planning etc. I helped relocate Hugur and Ayama, in advance of the arrival on the dock of the Fram- a Norwegian Arctic cruise ship – solidly built for the job in her red white and black livery – in contrast to the more generic Caribbean style vessel the previous day.  We too had to shift our Lily/Exody raft a few metres up the pier to allow the bow lines to be made off as the Fram’s prow towered over our sterns.  The uniformly rain-jacketed customers were soon flooding down the gangplanks for their 6 hour stopover.  With the rain stopped we took a short walk around town finding some technical trews for Marian and doing a small supermarket re-stock, regretting that we had missed the alcohol sale hours since we are low on wine and reckon it might be prohibitive in Iceland! We stopped at the cafe, using the internet code the others had wheedled out of them, appreciating the catch up from family and friends on gmail and whatsapp.

Stefan of Ayama brought weather counsel from the Fram’s first officer to combine with the several other sources we have between us as we convene in the early evening on Hugur to make a plan – all efforts now focused on avoiding a serious blow or headwinds en route to Iceland – our very last long leg.  Kristofer’s ice report has the Prince Christian Sound navigable, allowing us to pass inside Cape Farewell (usual counsel is to go 150 miles off!). We will jump the 640 miles from there to Akranes near Reykjavik Tuesday morning earliest.

 

July 13th: Grandeur of Greenland, growlers galore, Mordor

It is noon on Wednesday, 18 degrees celsius, and we are snuggled into a perfectly intricate anchorage at Kuugarmiut in amongst a mini-archipelago of islets and rocks surrounded by towering 1000 metre snowclad mountains near the south entrance of Kangerlussuatsiaq (Lindenow Fjord). We are at least a hundred miles from the nearest inhabitation and the place is surprisingly barren of wildlife – bar helicopter sized mosquitoes that keep us imprisoned below hatches tight shut and a handful of seals – a particularly photogenic baby one on an ice floe next to us last night. We can see an iceberg out through the entrance and small growlers make their way in.  I woke up in the early hours to the sound of a running tap – it was a melting lump of ice close by Exody. With the spectacular surroundings, brilliant sunny weather and quiet conditions, it is a bit surprising that we are here, maybe for two days, to await the passing of a low before we jump across to Iceland 640 miles away.

It has been a truly awe-inspiring couple of days, first with the majestic 50 mile inner passage through Prinschristianssund on Monday and then yesterday the 35 mile passage northward and inside the island of Droning Louise to here.

Nanortalik was a much less attractive stopover for Sunday night than Qaqortoq, giving us a window into the unfortunate alcohol problem Greenland has.  Rafted four abreast at the fishing dock, we shuttled back and forth with jerry cans to the coin operated diesel pump, the last opportunity to refill before Iceland. We left at 06.00 Monday for the 77 mile trip to the east end of Prinschristianssund.  Our route south to the sound entrance took us through and around many small islands, several bergs and a few small areas of growlers (pieces less than a metre high). It was a superbly clear day,high cloud, little sun and only headwinds and we could see the 1800 metre high jagged peaks bounding the sound clearly.  We thought we’d done vertiginous (Marquesas, La Reunion etc) but this mountainscape exceeded those places in grandeur.  We were travelling through Mordor towering on both sides of the one mile wide winding deep water channel taking us inboard of Cape Farewell.  Icefields were visible, several meeting the sea as small glaciers and spawning multiple small pieces of ice. Several icebergs had found their way in, dramatic as ever in their pure white colouring with cracks and seams of turquoise and blue. We passed one vessel going the other way- a Swiss motor cruiser that we reckon must have been shipped across – they were as surprised as us to see others and sounded their foghorn excitedly!  The mountains became more rounded and a little less severe as we progressed east, lifted by the tide through the half mile wide Qornoq narrows making the abandoned weather station at Ikerasassuaq by about 19.30.  Hugur anchored and all four boats rafted up for convivial pot luck dinner and weather discussion.  Some are keen to push north, whilst others happier to wait but we agreed to move north a little to the much better anchorage here at Kuugarmiut.

Tuesday dawned drizzly and, as we were leaving 09.15, the massive cruise ship Rotterdam entered the sound westbound, her damp passengers all on deck in the much less agreeable conditions than we had been lucky enough to have had the previous day. It’s billed in the book as one of the world’s most magnificent passages and so it had been for us!

The charts are poorly surveyed and drawn hereabouts so we took a safe outboard route around the multiple whale back islands and rocks harbouring many icebergs – they come south on the East Greenland current and get blown ashore with easterly winds, some carrying on south and back up the west coast on the north going current. We passed the massive buttress of Kap Ivan Huitfeldt to meet a pair of massive bergs marking the entrance to the channel south of Droning Louise.  It was flat calm as we motored along the gentle smooth rocky slopes of the shoreline with a dramatic mountaintop icefield to the south, its glacier spawning many small pieces of ice.  Within five miles the passage turns and narrows and we see solid ice between the nearest of three icebergs and the shore.  It looks thin but still far too thick – we reckon 3-6 inches – for Exody as lead boat and then Ayama as steel boat to break. We left some antifouling paint on it and circumnavigated the bergs for a clearer route.  Feeling relieved at getting through the narrows we were then faced at the next turn with a massive field of floating growlers rather than sheet ice.  Slowing to  two knots we all followed Ayama picking our way through for at least a mile until the waters cleared for our final approach through the winding channel inside Kuugarmiut.  Here several more icebergs parked up and decaying- one like a fantastic giant blue sponge, another a capsized massive Queen chess piece.  Thankfully none blocking either our passage in, nor the alternative passage out.  Last night we convened on Hugur for another weather summit – same story – wait till Thursday/Friday and expect to motor a fair chunk of the way.

So here we are, having slept in until 10, Lily has the washing out, we changed our engine oil and Marian is consolidating the photos. Cabin has stayed at 21 degrees since we turned the heater off two hours ago and classical CD’s are playing. There are worse places and conditions to await the weather!

 

July 17th: Farewell Farewell

Midafternoon Sunday and we are 180 miles into the 650+ mile passage to Iceland. Exody is now motoring at 5.5 knots into light headwinds and currents, the robust NNE’lies that gave us a wet closehauled first day having dwindled. The sun has broken through the heavy grey clouds ,13 degrees outside, 17 degrees in. The boat is now pointing at Iceland (ie rather than the Shetlands), or rather left a bit, to avoid the next low marching through from the southwest. We are very relieved to have safely left the Cape Farewell (Cap Farvel) region, billed as one of the most dangerous areas for navigation in the world, due to the combination of a propensity for bad weather and the presence of ice.  In the event we saw no ice whilst crossing the 100-mile wide belt after the many inshore stranded bergs and the 20-25 knot winds helped us move directly east.

We ended up three days and four nights in the Kuugarmiut anchorage, taking turns to host the evening drinks and weather meeting, enjoying the short break.  One day we borrowed Lily’s dinghy (to save inflating and launching our own) to explore the many bays of the anchorage, get close with some bergs, collect ice for the Exody bar later and to explore the sadly wrecked bothy that stands over the anchorage. Repeatedly I check the skyline, willing the silhouetted rocks to reveal themselves as animals, also scanning the shoreline for life. All I see is some miniscule fish, no more seals, no birds, nothing.  Don’t understand quite why it’s so barren- maybe the Greenlanders hunted everything out! But the backdrop of the snowclad hills, the ever-moving icebergs and peaceful waters make up for it.  Reduced to water-economic boat showers in the three weeks since our last proper ones in Nova Scotia, we both did our hair, Marian giving mine a first class trim. We fixed more things and waited.  Hugur kindly made water for us as Lily had in Nanatorlik, both having watermakers that can fill our small tank in about an hour! Ayama and Lily had to fend off growlers from their anchored boats, Ron gamely pushing one with his dinghy until it (the growler) unexpectedly capsized.

Our planned Friday departure was delayed at an eleventh hour midmorning summit to await slightly more comfortable conditions Saturday 16th. Leaving at 06.00, after a rather too close night-time encounter with a large rock near our anchor spot, we were first to negotiate the narrow gap around an iceberg newly parked across the fairly narrow exit.  We had the engine off at the mouth of Lindenow Fjord after a couple of hours. The autopilot started doing silly things so we hooked up the Aries self-steering – at its best close-hauled with a good breeze.  Our first day’s run to 06.00 this morning was 135 miles.  The four boats are within a thirty mile radius, Ayama and Hugur mainly motorsailing, Exody and Lily mainly sailing. Our six hourly radio check-ins are a welcome reassurance as are the six hourly reports to Arctic Command in Greenland – required until we leave their waters in another 70 miles. ETA Iceland looks like Thursday 21st and the hot news from Icelanders in the fleet is that a polar bear has made its way there!

 

July 19th: Midnight sun, long slog

The sun set sedately though dramatically over our stern port quarter last night at 23.40 – boat time, Iceland time and UTC (GMT)- now one and the same.  Over the starboard quarter the full moon simultaneously rose. Within no time over the port bow the dawn glow was showing through the clouds. Visibility was as good as daylight ending a beautiful sunny day on an ocean more like the tropical Atlantic or Pacific than the near Arctic.  With little wind we had motored most of the day, the mainsail up.  The movement was gentle enough for me to refill the fuel tank using the second of our three batches of three diesel jerrycans – one batch of three left – sufficient to motor the rest of the way to Iceland.  A small pod of pilot whales squeaked and wake-tailed us for a spell, surprising me by first breaking surface just 2 metres abeam the cockpit.

Now Tuesday evening, our fourth day at sea, a very different story. Exody has been close-hauled under single reefed main and genny since the forecast wind piped up early morning from a low pressure system to our south. The sea and skies are a uniform grey. We are clawing our way northward since, through my less than perfect tactics, we had dropped well south of the rhumb line- the rest of the fleet now about 50 miles to the north.  Whilst it’s a bit bumpy, the seas are moderate, rarely breaking over the deck, the wind is enough at about 15 knots but not too much, and the Aries does all the steering very competently.  Not bad if you have to sail upwind at all across an ocean – which gentlemen and cruising sailors are not supposed to do! But it is a long slog with just under 200 miles still to run. Speeds rarely over 5.5 knots against an almost constant 0.5 knot countercurrent. Our second day’s run to Monday morning was 135 miles and today only 129.

Watches are done from below checking the AIS screen and popping our heads out every 15 minutes or so.  Others have seen large Russian fishing vessels.  Insignia, a Reykjavik bound cruise ship, passed close by Exody early hours Monday.

Pleased to have pre-cooked several meals before departure, we are now focused on consuming our few remaining fresh items – all disallowed in Iceland. Today Marian is below par with tummy trouble (unrelated we think!)so the three/four hourly watch pattern is being flexed to optimise her recuperation.

Our arrival sailing plan and crewlist is now filed by email with the Icelandic Coastguard and we also voluntarily send them 6 hourly position tracking reports. The grib files I download twice daily tell us the north north easterly winds should back a little overnight giving us a lift and that we should be in lighter winds by tomorrow lunchtime. This will hopefully enable us to motorsail the last 100 miles, still upwind of course, to Akranes for ETA Thursday mid-morning. There we are looking forward most to a shower!

We still have a 600 mile northabout Iceland circuit to complete by 31st July when our Pacific crew Petter rejoins us. Then 300+ miles to Faeroes and finally 200+ on to Stornoway by 6th/7th August where my sister Hilary joins.  Here’s hoping for some more favourable winds!

 

July 20th – Iceland Ho!

The 850 metre snow covered peak of Snaefellsjoekull (featured in ‘Journey to the Centre of the Earth’)appeared this Wednesday afternoon from 70 miles off. In this pattern of alternating days, it is once again bright and sunny as we close reach at 6 knots in the light north north westerly breeze into the large bay of Faxafloi, Akranes 50 miles away at 22.00.  Bar two hours midday today we have been sailing since 5 yesterday morning, the northeasterly wind obligingly backing around last night to help us curve northward to make the ‘finish’ from what seemed a far too far south position.  Hugur our Icelandic hosts, who motored virtually the whole way from Greenland, are already in port this evening, Lily and Ayama about 25 miles ahead of us also motoring in. Last evening Hugur did a midsea fuel transfer to Ayama- a ‘jerrycan in the water’ technique pioneered by Ayama to us in the Timor Sea.  We are standing by in Ayama’s wake in case they need more.  When we get to under 5 knots, our engine will regretfully be on to assure our scheduled 08.00 arrival, only 12 hours after Hugur, already partying with their family and friends!

We can not be late as a tight programme is already organised by Hugur – we are, after all, four days late on our published schedule! Customs clearance and fuelling first, lunch and showers at Anna of Ayama’s sister then depart again from Akranes at 14.30 to make the 12 miles ‘fully dressed’ – with flags that is – for the pontoon party at the yacht club in Reykjavik.  Breakfast at Centerhotels (Kristofer and Svanfridur’s business) on Friday, massage and hair appointments etc. Kristofer’s son has SIM cards for us all and I have been put in touch with the Raymarine specialist to see if my recalcitrant electronic autopilot compass can be fixed. We have our own ARCtic yellowshirt team just like we have become used to!

Last night’s large pod of pilot whales, large, bullnose-headed and black appeared at sunset close through the galley window from my port position at the chart table, elevated by the boat’s heel. Once again they stayed a long while and was lulled  to sleep by their friendly squeaks so near through the hull, wondering how one particular call could sound so constant in volume when they were all moving around so energetically. First wake-riding, then side-riding and eventually bow-riding.  Today’s small group came and went very quickly this evening, saying farewell with a clear ‘we’re off’ twisting slap of the tailfin by the largest of their number.

As the sun still floods the cabin and I look around at the calm sea we are still gently sailing over, I once again reflect on our great good fortune, supported of course by our combined careful planning and weather interpretation, to have enjoyed such relatively benign conditions for both this passage and the last one from Newfoundland to Greenland.  This is a sea area where I always recall a midsummer Radio 4 Shipping Forecast referring once to the seas as ‘phenomenal’! Such conditions should be much easier to avoid on the shorter passages ahead.

 

 

 

 

USA and Canada cruise – now Greenland-bound

USA cruise Newport to Boston: 8th to 15th June – 175 miles

Boston to Shelburne passage: 16th to 18th June – 280 miles

Canada cruise Shelburne to Newfoundland: 19th June to 2nd July – 725 miles

It’s July 2nd and we are moored at the Government Wharf in Quirpon Harbour at the top end of Newfoundland. It is cold -under 10 degrees, the mist is down and we can see icebergs out there. Tomorrow at 06.00 the four boats in our ‘ARCtic’ fleet (Ayama, Exody, Hugur and Lily – a Dutch Amel 54 owned by Ron and Ineke) will set sail for Qaqortoq, Greenland 650 miles away.

In the last month we have taken in Martha’s Vineyard, Nantucket and Boston in USA and then Nova Scotia, Cape Breton Island en route to Newfoundland.

We are becoming slowly acclimatised now to the cooler sailing and the more unpredictable weather. We have enjoyed finally seeing some three-dimensional geography with the mountainous south west of Newfoundland and also the increased volume of wildlife, particularly whales in the fertile waters of the Labrador current meeting the Gulf Stream.  They were everywhere in our final approach here yesterday, 1st July, 98 miles motoring from Port au Choix. Blowing, breaching, tail-flipping, one within a boatslength – exciting stuff.  We had also sighted our first iceberg by late afternoon and several were in range as we made our final approach to Quirpon Harbour weaving through the reefs in brisk winds around 20.00.

Boat heater running full pelt against the low of 7 degrees, we were soon bedded down.  Morning brought a large (road) tanker to the dock before 09.00 to refill our diesel tanks.  Stefan of Ayama sorted a car loan from a local and  organised a shuttle for the eight of us, first to the grocery and then to the Viking Village and Museum. Amazing to see, read, hear and feel how these folk came across the Atlantic over 1000 years ago in open boats to seek out the resources of what they called Vinland.  Our stop at L’anse aux Meadows being their staging post en route to New Brunswick primarily for butternut and grapes.  We finished the day with an excellent meal at the one local restaurant and then regrouped on Hugur to share passage plans, weather interpretations and iceberg maps or our orthcoming passage.

Hugur kindly gave us a miniature Thor, sacrifices to whom we are told might help assure us of a safe onward passage.

Here are the logs covering the cruises and passages as posted to our immediate families over the last month.

June 16th : Sailing away from the USA

Its 20.30 and the sun has just set astern in the Gulf of Maine as we head almost due east for Shelburne, Nova Scotia, 220 miles away. We are in international waters once again. The sea is flat, the headwind light, the moon near full, the skies clear and we have been motoring most of the time since leaving Boston, 65 miles ago at 10 this morning. Ayama is pacing us half a mile away to starboard and Hugur twenty miles behind. We are now thankfully clear of watching out for the multiple lobster and fishing floats we have been dodging since Newport. But we’ve only seen two shark fins and no whales as yet as we crossed the special habitat protection zone off Boston.

Since the last log we have been in Newport, Rhode Is., Martha’s Vineyard, Nantucket, and Cape Cod before arriving in Boston on Tuesday 14th. Our outboard engine packed up in Martha’s Vineyard and then to make matters more interesting our main engine stopped in an unholy escape of steam ten miles off Cape Cod. So, we’ve had a busy maintenance schedule whilst also making time to enjoy these historic New England places.

Like Annapolis, Newport is another major US yachting centre. We were anchored in the one designated zone separate from the mass of moorings, quite a dinghy hike from town. We found the newly refurbished yachting centre facilities, a huge choice of eateries (delicious lobster sandwiches and salads), pubs and mainly clothing shops – new sailing shoes bought for Marian. Spending four nights here (4th to 7th June), we walked the vividly contrasting cliff walk, fine lawns and mansions to starboard and crashing Atlantic waves to port, saw the church where JFK married Jackie, viewed the magnificent mansions from street-side – some in a scottish baronial style, several now taken over as a university. We found and bought a few essentials in the tiny chandlery. The mist rolled in densely a couple of times reminding us that we are already in the north!

The 41 mile passage to Martha’s Vineyard on 8th June was exhiliarating as we rode the tide through Buzzard’s Bay then between the islands of Nashawena and Pasque, emerging into the sound then inside the reef, passing elegant beach houses, rounding the corner into Vineyard Haven – all under sail and in company with Ayama and Hugur. The anchorage is outside the breakwater though reasonably protected. So many of the moored boats were wooden, I wondered whether they put a surcharge on GRP ones! We were late ashore and everything was closing – this is a dry and thus quiet town so not much happening! The other two left in the morning whilst we stayed to tackle our incalcitrant outboard – the one that had until then always started first time every time for two years perhaps lulling us into a false sense of security. Suspecting dirty fuel (again!), I eventually found a fault after the fourth dismantling of the carburettor. A small breach in the fuel diaphragm was temporarily fixed with an elastoplast which has held out now for well over a week.

Changing the original plan to transit the Cape Cod canal in favour of a stop at Nantucket, we sailed most of the 28 miles to join the others at the immaculately maintained Boat Basin right in the centre of the picturesque town- all clapboard or cedar shingles – few painted, most naturally an attractive grey. Like everywhere the slips (berths) are virtually empty as we are ahead of the US season by a couple of weeks. But the town is busy with tourists.

Saturday 11th, we were up early to shower and provision at the handy Stop’n Shop before door-stepping the small chandlery for their 8 am opening. All three boats were away before nine for the 70 mile trek around the outside of the long beach-lined ‘hook’ of Cape Cod. The tides lifted us by over two knots through Pollock Rip and onward as we motorsailed north then west taking turns to watch out for and dodge the frequent lobster pots. Provincetown sits at the head of the natural harbour. Here the Mayflower Pilgrims landed in 1620. Here we made our way in under well-reefed sail having tacked in the last ten miles after we urgently stopped the engine when it spewed hot steam into the cabin! Our friends ahead were standing by in two dinghies to help us moor under sail in the last of the evening light. In the end Exody handily drifted down and Marian snappily picked up a vacant ball in the near empty mooring field. The engine problem was soon fixed by replacing a large diameter perished hose for which I had been wise enough to carry a spare.

We used the marina launch service for trips ashore Sunday and Monday, taking in a climb up the Pilgrim memorial tower and the associated museums, enjoying the food, galleries and the quaint atmosphere. Provincetown is a holiday destination of choice for the LGBT community and also has a long history as an artistic venue.

Staying a third night to wait for the headwinds to reduce, Exody and Ayama set off for Boston on the morning of Tuesday 14th, motoring the whole way in steadily reducing wind and seas. The approach to the City – with the skyline seen from miles away is between small offlying islands before the channel passes close by Logan Airport and on into Boatwater Marina where we had booked mooring balls right next to the central Long Wharf ferry terminal from where many day trips also operate. Easy access, great facilities, calm nights and great views from the cockpit. Trains and boats and planes everywhere! We are right next to the Central Business District and everything is walkable. Tuesday night we dined out on splendid seafood, meeting up with ARC yellowshirt Jake coincidentally laying over there. After early laundry then sight seeing on Wednesday, we trekked out by bus and foot to the West Marine in Woburn 12 miles away to collect our ordered bilge pump, returning by Uber taxi. We met David on Moonbeam of Argyll, a fine 46 ft ketch he had not long bought from the former manager of Ardfern Marina and had shipped across the Atlantic. We were entertained Wednesday night by the arrival in the river of an LPG tanker escorted by multiple military and police vessels and helicopters- ushering away all vessels in the way and carefully guarding what is presumably a high risk potential terrorist target.

Exody was first to leave on Thursday morning after showers and stocking up at the excellent Golden Goose minimarket.

 

June 25th : Canada – Whales, Loyalists, Lobsters

This morning’s brilliant sunrise over a smooth windless sea was barely six hours after sunset – both long lingering affairs, the sun showing itself nearly two hours after first light on the north east horizon. Exody is two thirds through the 170 mile passage from Halifax to the fresh water Bras D’Or lake in Cape Breton Island. Our course is just north of due east along the low-lying relatively featureless south coast of Nova Scotia. The geographical expectation of some mountains and hills raised by the intricate coast lines here are realised only in two dimensions!

We had arrived in Canada a week ago today, last Saturday morning 18th June, after two quiet and calm days at sea, motor-sailing the whole of the 284 miles from Boston. Spotted several whales en route, blowing, surfacing but not breaching. None close enough to photograph. Exody also collected yellow dust on all forward facing surfaces- later learnt to be pollen- also seen in kind of slicks on the flat sea- no wonder Marian is sneezing more than usual.

Marian’s dawn watch had brought us up the attractive wooded fjord to moor off the quiet town of Shelburne at the Yacht Club Marina. Following the required phone call on arrival, Border Protection turned up to courteously though firmly clear us in. We came alongside for this and took the opportunity to re-fuel, re-water and hose down everything.

The cold bite of the night air that had us inaugurate Exody’s heater for the season was soon forgotten in the early summer sunshine- shorts and teeshirts were soon back out. We missed the farmers market but found the yacht club showers and explored the compact historic waterfront, carefully preserved with several museums (fishing, boatbuilding etc)

Here Union Jack’s outnumbered Canadian flags flown from gardens and homes – for this town’s and indeed all of Nova Scotia’s recent heritage is hinged on the British.

We ate a fine dinner at a recommended Cafe, nearly missing the booking as we met up with interesting folk at the bar. Colin and Lou of Pelerin an Ovni 435 – Colin writes for AAC (Attainable Adventure Cruising- google it). Also Clive and Angela of Cosmic Dancer V a Sweden Yachts 38 that has spent several seasons in the far north and is next heading for the Great Lakes then overland by truck to the north Pacific.

After two nights, we left early Monday 20th for the 74 miles to Lunenburg, sailing more than half the distance passing close to the offlying islands and shore. Occasional large waterside houses interrupted the otherwise apparently undisturbed pinewoods, beaches and headlands.

A perfect natural harbour bounded on one side by a golf course and the other by brightly coloured restored buildings, waterfront piers and a mix of fishing, pleasure and historic craft. This Unesco World Heritage site , Lunenburg, could be the Tobermory of Nova Scotia! The province has many of our names replicated – we have passed the River Clyde and New Glasgow for example and seen Loch Lomond on a map.

Amongst the gift shops, lobster eateries and more pragmatic food and pharmacy shops we discovered that nowhere here sells SIM cards but the search gave us a good walking tour of the town. The mist, or should it be fog, rolled in and away several times, sometimes bringing visibility to less than a quarter mile.

And so it was when we left early Wednesday 22nd for the completely fogbound 45 miles to the Royal Nova Scotia Yacht Club at -( or rather near!) the city of Halifax- population 300,000- same as Iceland. We motored with our eyes glued to the radar the whole way heading from buoy to buoy – hearing but not seeing a tug and tow passing less than a quarter mile away. The fog lifted as we approached yet another natural harbour, our mooring being in the North Western Arm – a good 15 minutes drive from town. A very professionally managed club with launch service, laundry and good food at their bar. We all met up for convivial drinks and bar meal with Ron and Ineke from Dutch Amel 54 Lily who will join our ARCtic group for the sail to northern Europe.

We hired a car jointly with Ayama for trips to the well stocked chandlery, outdoor clothing outlets, groceries (finding even a small supermarket overwhelming) and of course a SIM card shop. Halifax a large city by our recent standards. We visited Hugur at the other marina in Dartmouth and lunched at a micro-brewery.

Friday 24th we were alongside the yacht club to refuel, do the laundry and make final vain efforts to trace a small parcel of outboard spares I had ordered to be sent there. Ayama and Hugur left early in the day, Exody and Lily a little later by about noon. Fortunate to be able to sail the first six hours but the wind left with the daylight as we motorsailed through the night within sight and AIS distance of Lily a few miles behind.

 

July 1st – Mountains, Snow, Whales, Puffins

Lunchtime Friday 1st July and we are motoring along the south edge of the Strait of Belle Isle in a flat calm and varying visibility (down to less than a quarter mile), eyes peeled for icebergs or, more critically, bergy bits or growlers – the more dangerous smaller pieces. The rain has stopped and the chilly early morning temperature of 10 has risen to 14. The cabin is a cosy 24 with the Eberspacher heater working full-on and the damp clothes drying. We have seen several more whales, humpbacks blowing, surfacing and tail flapping. For the second day in a row the four boats of our fleet have set off at 04.30 to take two long daylight bites at the 175 mile passage from Bonne Bay to L’Anse aux Meadows at the very northern tip of Newfoundland. This will be our spring off point for Greenland. A visit to it’s unique Viking Village and Museum is mission-critical to our Swedish and Icelandic sailing buddies.

Since last Saturday we have enjoyed the delights of Cape Breton Island’s Bras D’Or lake- not freshwater after all by the way, and made the 250 mile passage across to Newfoundland before working our way up it’s western coast in the Gulf of St Lawrence.

Exody locked in at St Peter’s Canal at the south entrance to the lake on Saturday 25th having motored the rest of the way in from Halifax – 167 miles in total. We chatted for an hour with the cheery and informative lock keeper, enjoying the midday sunshine whilst awaiting Lily a few miles behind. Recollections and similarities to Crinan and Caledonian canals. After negotiating the winding buoyed channel between pretty wooded islands, we sailed across the lake and in through the very narrow entrance to anchor in the almost circular and completely landlocked Little Harbour where we found the restaurant closed. The German yacht-owning proprietors however allowed us to use their garden for our DIY traditional Swedish midsummer celebrations carefully orchestrated by Anna and Stefan of Ayama – a fun evening! Sunday 26th we motored the 22 miles to anchor at delightful Baddeck – a small town, yachting centre, and home to Alexander Graham Bell. A small friendly marina, chandlery and moorings here with folk busy getting boats ready for the upcoming season. Clapboard seaside houses with their own moorings, jetties and boatsheds – ideal! We gathered at the Yacht Club to compare notes on ice charts, weather and routing before turning in for an early night, still nursing the after effects of Aquavit, whisky etc from the night before!

With a 250 mile passage to make Newfoundland, we decided to leave mid afternoon Monday for two nights at sea and an early morning arrival. Lily did similar, Ayama and Hugur opting for an earlier start and just one night at sea. It was a dreich day but calm so I spent the first couple of hours cleaning off the ‘Intracostal Smile’ – ie brown marks from US waters – from Exody. We had time to shower, do laundry and explore the shops for some last minute warm gear, and fresh supplies. The anchor was up by 15.00 not long after Lily and we motored the 20 miles up to the tidal Narrows that form the northern exit from the Bras D’Or lake. Once again like much of the US and Canadian seaboard we have seen, many fine summer houses nestled amongst the woods, above the beaches and on the rocky outcrops. We passed Bird Islands (read Treshnish) complete with puffin sightings and were treated to the sun set over the western highlands – as the relatively mountainous north of Cape Breton is known.

The evening brought wind from astern and we were soon making good way under sail. The seas in the Cabot Strait that branches off from the St Lawrence to the south of Newfoundland were confused giving us a very lumpy ride through the first night. The wind increased to well over 20 knots and by morning we were down to double reefed main only. During Tuesday the conditions steadily improved and the wind came round enough for us to fly the genny some of the time. Wednesday morning we could have been sailing along the south coast of Mull as we closed the steep mountainous coastline of south west Newfoundland and the deep fjord like Bonne Bay. It had been a cold night at 14 degrees but there was a blast of a warm southwest wind and by the time we were tied up alongside Ayama at the Woody Point Government Wharf just half an hour later at 08.15, it was 19 degrees. We are in the middle of the Gros Morne National Park. Ayama had made it by nightfall, Hugur at 23.00 and Lily 04.30. No sooner were we tied up before the heavens opened and the mist rolled in but it lifted a little later allowing us a good walk ashore convening in the Merchant Warehouse and returning by the lighthouse and shoreside fishermans shacks, pockets of snow on the hills, mist hanging in layers.

Already north of the potential ice-line, the plan was to start early Thursday for the 80 miles north to Port au Choix. Away by 04.30, we managed to sail a bit, then motorsail out of the fjord and up the increasingly low-lying coast. The fog rolled in densely as we picked our way by GPS and radar between the unseen reef and Pointe Riche Peninsula, finally revealing itself surprisingly close as we turned into the narrow buoyed channel past Querre Island. This busy fishing port had space for us at the public wharf and we rafted alongside Hugur in the pouring rain at about 17.00 – four hours of daylight to spare. No ice seen for the day. Birthday drinks for Kristofer on Hugur then to the Anchor Cafe for local seafood. Here Stefan had the waitress organise our fuel delivery 100 miles north for Saturday.

Today Friday 1st, it was another 04.30 start,departing in fairly dense fog, this time to make 98 miles in 17 hours of daylight, up close to the coast, Labrador still 40 miles away but narrowing toward the 12 mile wide Strait of Belle Isle. Then on eastward across the ‘top’ of Newfoundland to the recommended Government Wharf fuel rendezvous at Quirpon.

ARC USA and cruise Norfolk to Newport

Tortola to Bermuda ARC USA – May 7th to 13th : 850 miles
Bermuda Stopover ARC USA – May 14th to 16th
Bermuda to Portsmouth, Virginia ARC USA- May 17th to May 21st : 650 miles
USA Cruise – Portsmouth (Norfolk) to Newport (Rhode Island) – May 22nd to June 4th : 550 miles

Our time has flown once again! In the month since the last update – we have completed ARC USA, cruised the first 550 miles north and east including a memorable family reunion in New York. Exody’s fuel got contaminated giving us an interesting few days feeding the engine from jerrycans then a couple days solid work accessing, emptying, cleaning and sorting the tanks. Now we are anchored at Rhode Island and will set off for Cape Cod and Boston tomorrow. We are cruising in company with our two World ARC veterans Ayama and Hugurwith whom we will head north for Greenland and Iceland.

Now we have emerged from the coverage of World Cruising Club, our location can be tracked at https://my.yb.tl/exody/map-only or, when near land at marinetraffic.com.

Here are the last batch of eight World Cruising Club published logs covering the period.

May 7th – “Contestants its time to plate up!”

The Masterchef analogy, coined by Steven of Adagio at the bar last night, is a great one to describe the fear, tension, anticipation and excitement in the final run up to the start of an ocean passage!  Forty four boats are assembled at Nanny Cay, Tortola, for the passage to USA or Europe via Bermuda including a handful heading straight for Florida. For Exody, it will be about six days at sea.

It is nearly two months since we completed our last ocean passage in Grenada. So, just like a potentially fine meal, the ingredients are together- fuel, provisions, water – but some of the detail stuff has not quite been done and ‘presentation’ leaves a little to be desired. Just check the storage gloryhole that Exody’s forecabin has become since the crew moved out in April, the dust everywhere after our varnishing job and the rusty stains creeping back on the hull,deck and stainless. However, I’ve been up the mast to check the rig and the comprehensive ARC safety inspection gratifyingly required no remedials. We found a man to fix our minor gelcoat dings and another to scrape our rather unexpectedly early accrual of barnacles from the hull. So we are ready enough to ‘plate up’ or ‘ship out’!

It has been good to meet some of the crews including some Scots and to meet up with our World ARC friends (nine of the 14 boats here), to see new and familiar World Cruising Club yellowshirts and to have a good chandlery to hand for minor spares.

We had arrived in Nanny Cay, Tortola on May 3rd, taking in ‘The Baths’ on Virgin Gorda and the anchorage at Peter Island en route.

The Baths we were told were a ‘must see’ for our all too short stopover here, so we were up and away at dawn from our peaceful anchorage at Long Bay for the few miles motoring to the very western tip of the island.  The official moorings were already humming with charter catamaran activity well before eight and we picked one up close enough to swim ashore.  You walk amongst, under, over and inbetween massive boulders, as if sprinkled randomly by some giant into the turquoise water and pristine sand.  Shady pools,reef fish, shafts of sunlight and stunning views out to Sir Francis Drake Channel.  Back on board and mooring slipped as the first tourist boats arrived.

We could not miss stopping at my namesake Peter Island – it has an upmarket resort and marina.  We anchored for lunch in the relative quiet of Deadman Bay next to Dead Chest island – the names resonant of the piratical history of these islands!

Next stop Bermuda, 845 miles away.

 

May 10th: halfway to Bermuda- savouring the Trades

The skies are clear, the quiet seas are blue and the trade winds are still gently blowing as Exody reaches directly north at just over six knots.  Cabin temperature is 28 degrees – the same as London today. This is sailing as it should be – and as it has been for a fair amount of our twenty two month, 30,000 mile plus trip away from home waters, mostly in trade wind belts.  Now we are eking out the last of the trade wind pleasures since, all too soon, we will begin to experience the North Atlantic westerlies and weather systems. But not before an expected windless stretch through the doldrums.

We passed the halfway point to Bermuda this morning with our three day’s runs to noon since the start on Saturday 7th being 136, 150 and 151 nautical miles.

The passage has been unusually busy with other ARC boats, given that the rally fleets normally disperse widely.  This time,and still after 400 miles, we have rarely been out of sight, and often within five miles, of at least three boats.  Last night it was Hejira and Here & Now behind and Halcyon VIII ahead.  Since this morning, Halcyon pulled away and we have been trailing a Feeling 1350 called Zython by just two miles.  Exody and Zython are well matched on handicap so guess we may be together for a while if both crews keep their sail-trimming focus!  We hear many VHF conversations so our part of the fleet is fairly compact.

On Saturday we had slipped the lines at 11.15 ready for the 12 noon gun- a good breeze from the aft port quarter leading to an exciting start.  Exody was near the top of the line leaving just enough space for the 23 metre Advanced A80 racing machine ‘Apsaras’ to come powering through at about ten knots between us and the committee boat.  The winds were fickle as we rounded Tortola, then Jost van Dyke leaving Great Tobago to port.  As Exody turned north to Bermuda we were about midfleet and the winds settled to south easterly giving a pleasing and comfortable reach.  Sunday was overcast with much rain and some motoring, Monday started the same but improved, bar a brief squall at dinner time and today, Tuesday, has been brilliant!

Marian and I last plied this stretch of water in 1982 in our nine metre long-keeled sloop, with sextant, navigation tables, radio and watch in hand. There was a certain fragility to our confidence in our newly acquired navigation skills and equipment, upon which our safe arrival in Bermuda hinged! How things have changed – though we have that same equipment on board now, the skills are rusty and we rely on multiple GPS’s.

 

May 11th: New Moon, Procession, Doldrums

It is nearly midnight and for the second night in a row the bright new moon is setting in the west under a clear starlit sky.  Tonight I can see the lights of three yachts heading north, last night there was a procession of five ARC yachts all appearing evenly spaced.  It must be something about the psychology of a heading of 000 True, or the minuteness of Bermuda as a target that keeps us all so close to the same track! It has not happened anywhere else so consistently on our rally travels.

Exody was creaming along at around 7 knots on a close to beam reach with a 12- 14 knot trade wind through the night, the wind easing as another sunny day dawned, earlier yet again than the day before – I detected first light not long after four in the morning. Downloading the position report, there were six ARC boats so closely spaced on my graph paper plot (1mm = 1 nautical mile) I could barely fit the names in. All six sets of sails could be seen and identified as the sun came up, the nearest being Ayama. Our AIS (Automatic Identification System) has stopped receiving properly hence the more analogue approach!

By late morning we were in the doldrums with the wind dwindled to under five knots and boat speed to three. For the last 12 hours we have motored across a completely flat sea, sometimes glassy or oily calm.  We came across a yellow weather buoy completely unlit and uncharted. It seemed to be designed with with kind of fenders around it perhaps expecting to survive a passing vessel. One our size would definitely come off worse so thankful for daylight and that we saw it!!  At noon our day’s run was 151 with 261 to go.  Now at midnight, on the same latitude as Daytona in Florida to the west and the north tip of Lanzarote to the east, we have 181 miles to run.  With no material wind forecast, we expect to motor the rest of the way arriving St George’s early Friday morning.

A level boat and open hatches meant a day for jobs on board. I have been sorting the forecabin, fixing some minor electrical stuff and plotting our route up the east coast of USA and Canada.  Marian has been drafting an article on crew ‘matters’ and communicating with our girls.  By way of sharp comparison – back in May 1982 in exactly the same area, we had heaved to our nine metre sloop, hoisted a hurricane lamp and gone to sleep for the night whilst a blustery front passed through.

 

May 12th: Gunning and Ghosting, Chill in the Air

It is 21.00 and the last of the sunset has not long disappeared, the moon now bright, the skies clear and the seas flat. Heard this before?  Just 70 miles out from Bermuda, we are ghosting along at around four knots with the light south easterly breeze.  Although progress is slow and we want to optimise our very short three night stopover in Bermuda, it seems a shame to ‘gun’ the engine and spoil the magical peace.  We are feeling chilled having dug out and recharged our old ipods to deliver sweet music over dinner of Frittata!

At the 09.00 daily radio net which Exody hosted this morning, we reported 20.5 hours motoring out of the previous 24, but the wind has since picked up allowing us to sail off and on today.  Once again at daybreak, we had three boats in sight, Zython, Here & Now and Halcyon VIII. All have since motor sailed over the horizon. Relentless has just passed us and Dexter is coming up. Our day’s run at noon was 148 miles.

All day long we have been hearing the very English sounding Bermuda Radio calling up the approaching yachts of the fleet ahead of us- they apparently pick us up and tag us on radar from at least 25 miles out – and then call us if we do not call them!  Must be a very high mast on that low island and a powerful signal for us to have heard them on VHF from 100 miles! It will be our turn tomorrow.  We have had another quiet day of industry on board, sorting and cleaning our small space. Laptops out on the table, emailing away via the many more available shore radio stations in this part of the world.

Although cabin temperature is still 25 degrees, there is a definite chill in the air now we are nearly as far from the equator as we were in South Africa. It is a pleasure to enjoy the progressively longer days and shorter nights with noticeably prolonged sunrises and sunsets. Just a small hint of the contrasts before us as we head north potentially as far as the Arctic Circle north of Iceland en route home to Scotland.

 

May 15th: Blowy in Bermuda

It’s Sunday lunchtime – the torrential rain and blustery westerly winds are abating and we may get out to be tourists.  We are one of a dozen boats rafted up choc-a-bloc in the St George’s Town Dock. It is a picture postcard little town with quaint historic buildings, a town crier. All roofs here like ribbed icing on a cake- kept pristine as water collectors.

We arrived two days ago, motoring in most of the last 100 miles.  The narrow ‘Town Cut’ is big enough for cruise ships but felt constrained to us.  Queued then tied up at the customs dock for straightforward clearance then a very short hop to the town dock.  Soon discovered the well sorted Yacht Services facility with internet, cafes and quite the highest quality toilets we have seen anywhere.  Sadly no showers but that’s maybe because we can not be trusted to conserve the island’s limited water supply!

Our mood knocked on receipt of sad but not unexpected news of the death of a friend in Trinidad, the hospitalisation of another, on top of serious medical and personal issues in our own immediate family.  It is at these times we really feel the distance from home in both miles and time.

Friday night we dinghied across harbour to the ‘other’ ARC base at the Dinghy Yacht Club where we had welcome drinks and a barbecue.  Saturday saw the serious logistics of the duty-free refuelling of nearly 40 boats expertly orchestrated by the ARC yellowshirts from three different locations.  For us, as a smaller boat on the outside of a raft, it meant a wait to tie back up as the rubiks cube of the Town Dock was carefully reassembled in increasingly windy conditions.

We’ve exchanged details with another boat, Vulcan Spirit, heading to UK via Greenland. Yesterday Starlight 35 owners Robin and Sandra pitched up to say hello and share Sadler afficionado stories, having sailed their other boat, a Contessa 32, across the Atlantic – the Starlight meanwhile ‘holding’ their mooring in the Solent! Mike from ZenAgain came to share SSB Radio/DSC expertise, apparently having seen me quoted by someone.

Our time has also been taken up by Marian’s commission to write an article on crew selection and lessons learnt.  My editorial on her draft has thankfully just been finished courtesy of the wet morning so we are free to explore the island a little.

 

May 17th: Bound for the Chesapeake

It is midnight and the three quarter moon is filtering through the cloud cover – it’s pattern just like an inverted rippled sand beach.  The canopy masks the stars but an aircraft trail, straight as an arrow crosses, the sky and the moonlight reflects off the sea.

One hundred miles out from Bermuda, Exody is goosewinging downwind rarely reaching five knots in less than ten knots of wind with a half knot adverse current.  It seems too good a sail to spoil with the engine but too slow to reach port before a forecast weather system lands late Saturday!  I am hanging my hopes on an imminent veer and increase in wind.

Thirty six boats left St George’s – thirty on ARC Europe for the Azores with a formal race start at 11.00, the other six in their own time on ARC USA. Pure Elegance and Viva left last evening, three of us World ARC boats left around 07.30 and the last at 11.30.  It is a non-competitive leg and we are currently positioned last in the fleet!

After the rain on Sunday, we rented a scooter- no hire cars allowed here,   Not having driven a motorised two wheeler for about 45 years, we practised in the parking lot before unsteadily joining the traffic and doing a small loop around the head of scorpion-shaped Bermuda.  Everything is neat, prim and clean, houses brightly coloured, roofs all white, roads cut through the coral rock.  The sea is a true azure blue with intimate fine sand beaches here and there and many places to park a boat!  Historic forts abound built to protect the strategically placed island – or more correctly islands – and their perfect natural protected anchorages.

At the Sunday evening fish fry dinner and prizegiving for the 140 skippers and crew, Exody won second in Class C for the Nanny Cay to Bermuda leg, one of four received by 2015/16 World ARC veterans – a good showing. So we have another plaque to add to our collection along with some fine Bermuda rum!

Yesterday, after self-service laundry and breakfast in the dockside cafe, we took a scooter trip into capital Hamilton.  Front Street was dominated by a moored Cruise Ship that looked to have a similar elevation to the island itself.  We found a busy pub bistro for lunch called Devil’s Isle.  Enjoying our rock fish salad at the bar, we could have been in any first world city business district, but for the formal Bermuda shorts garb still worn by some, together with long socks.

At the Skippers briefing the USA bound boats were counselled to leave early so we brought forward our final preparations and provisioning that afternoon. Seventeen World ARC crews from eight boats gathered for a last meal and drinks at the White Horse Pub right next to the Town Dock. We counselled Garlix on their planned Scotland stops and bade fond farewells to all.  We are sure to meet again.

Now we are four two handed boats from the World ARC headed for USA, the other four Europe and homeward bound.

 

May 19th – Weather !

Gale force gusts and sustained winds in the upper 20’s befell our small ARC USA fleet last night as a low passed through, preceded yesterday with torrential rain and heavy cloud virtually all day.  Exody was careering along under double reefed main and less than a treble reefed genny. Nearly close hauled, the south south westerly wind fortunately allowed us to maintain our rhumb line.  It was very wet and we found new leaks in our cabin ceiling.  As usual the movement down below was relatively gentle and we both slept well on our off watches.

However, with that low for a taster, we are now even more keen to make port 300 miles away at the mouth of the Chesapeake before Saturday when the next deeper low forms off Cape Hatteras! Early this morning, the skies cleared, the winds abated and veered returning us to classic high pressure clear, sunny conditions. Everything is out to dry! To maintain progress we are motorsailing at nearly seven knots into the light northeasterly breeze.  Viva, Hugur and Ayama were all within 20 miles at this morning’s radio roll call. Our day’s runs to 06.15 were 126 yesterday and 161 today.

Tomorrow afternoon we should be at the Gulf Stream – 1.5 knots of warm north easterly flowing current about sixty miles wide where we will cross it just north of Cape Hatteras.

 

June 4th – Portsmouth, Annapolis, New York, Bristol, Newport

Exody completed ARC USA arriving in a grey and damp Portsmouth, Virginia two weeks ago today on Saturday May 21st.  Motored most of the last 24 hours to beat the forecast deeper low.  Portsmouth is well up the Elizabeth River, home to Uncle Sam’s impressive naval fleet and the city of Norfolk across the water. Negotiating the busy shipping lanes that cross over at the entrance to the Chesapeake, we still had a few hours to go after passing over the 13 mile Chesapeake tunnel-bridge.  The landscape was low and apparently bleak.

Today June 4th we are anchored in a foggy Newport Rhode Island, which feels as busy a sailing venue as the Solent.  It is Saturday so there were yacht and dinghy races aplenty and many elegant, classic, excursion sailing boats plying their trade.

In the intervening fortnight we have had a memorable kaleidoscope of USA, boat maintenance and family experiences!

At Portsmouth, ARC Yellowshirt Jake had organised drinks one night and a dinner the following night- a welcome welcome for the six strong fleet. Clearance was coordinated on the Sunday and we took the pastiche paddlewheel ferry across to Norfolk.  With SIM cards organised for phone and data, essential supplies and a haircut for me, we set off Monday lunchtime with the downriver tide for Annapolis following Hugur and Ayama.  Turning north into the wind and foul tide of the Chesapeake at the rivermouth, Exody was making barely four knots under power and bucking the waves. Without warning it started to ‘rain’ inside the boat, leaking from the ceiling void- I could only think the previous day’s torrential rain had got in somehow and was now finding its way in – very worrying since chart table and galley both in the wet zone!

Wind, sea and tide soon moderated and it was a busy night navigating the buoyed channels, the tugs towing and the fish trap areas in the shallows right next to our route.  It was a 21 hour motor to make the 140 miles to Port Annapolis Marina.  The approach was busy with all kinds of vessels and the navigational marks virtually all hosted an inhabited osprey nest – very rare at home but a commonplace here.

Annapolis is a characterful and well preserved historic city and naval/yachting centre.  It hosts a large naval college- cadets in all-white uniforms even off duty. We enjoyed the water taxi ride into town, breakfast at Chick and Ruth’s delly where the locals stand and swear allegiance to the US flag at 08.30.

It was a hive of activity in Annapolis the Wednesday we left. Apart from graduation day at the naval college, the Blue Angels flying display was scheduled from 14.00.  Thus we left port negotiating a huge armada of smallcraft anchored off for the best view and clearly set to party for the day!  Carrying the tide north we made the delightfully peaceful anchorage 45 miles away at the Sassafras River just before sunset.  Large waterside weekend and holiday retreats abound here amidst the wooded shores and beaches.  We saw deer on the beach and shared the anchorage with just one other boat.

Off early Thursday to carry the tide to and through the Chesapeake and Delaware canal – an attractive passage with more rural retreats and only one ship encountered.  We waited for the railway bridge to close and open and passed under several other road bridges.  We are within about 35 miles of Washington, Delaware, Baltimore, Newark and Philadelphia. Emerging into the Delaware River we tucked in behind Reedy Island at lunchtime after 29 miles to wait for the tide.

Leaving late afternoon, our engine stopped unexpectedly after two hours, fortunately in a wide part of the estuary with little shipping. Sails up and started tacking downcurrent and upwind as I tackled the lack of fuel to the engine, eventually jury-rigging a jerrycan supply to keep us going. Clearing Cape May during the night we were sailing again with a southerly breeze by midnight and made for an unscheduled midmorning stop at Atlantic City for jerrycans and fuel. As the sailing was good and the engine bad, we passed our planned stop at Manasquan River, making our way up the low-lying New Jersey coastline punctuated only by water towers. Eventually feeling our way into the anchorage at Sandy Hook, just south of New York, 178 miles from Reedy Island at 01.30 Saturday morning – we were (just!) on schedule for our weekend family rendezvous. We slept very well and were suprised to wake and find ourselves alone in the anchorage.

Arrival in New York was memorable – the flotilla of small boats everywhere mixed with commercial shipping and ferry traffic kept us on our toes as we passed under the  Bridge, the New York skyline hazy at first but the sun shining on the Statue of Liberty for the obligatory snaps and selfies.  Memories for us as children of the same approach on the Queen Elizabeth I in 1958 for me and on the France for Marian in 1965!

We were soon tied up at our marina berth on the Jersey City side of the Hudson just a mile or so from the Statue.  Within an hour younger daughter Tessa made her surprise (to Marian !) appearance.  The day was soon done – I crashed and the girls went to Greenwich Village for a drink.

Sunday morning saw the arrival of  Marian’s brother and daughter, sister and daughter with husband and two children. Exody made a good playground for Abby and Seamus.  Soon packed all of us into the car for our focused NY experiences- lunch at Katz – famous for pastrami and rye, a poignant visit to Ground Zero and the adjacent new buildings – I have a photo in my archive taken at age 17 in 1970 when the World Trade Centre was under construction.  A walk and lie in the grass in Central Park followed by Thai dinner at a bijou place called Noodies and finally nightcaps at an Irish Bar.

Tessa stayed on board with us Sunday and Monday we made our way by reduced service – ie slow- public transport to a Trinidad Roti shop in Brooklyn.  Here we were entertained by impromptu dancing to the music before persuading an off duty taxi driver to take Tessa to JFK.  The rest came back to Exody for a short ‘lime’ before heading home to Pennsylvania, leaving Marian’s brother William with us for next leg north. The three of us met up with Hugur and Ayama for an Italian meal near to their West 79th Street marina.

Tuesday 31st we set off with the morning tide, refuelling at Liberty Landings and heading up the East River the extreme buzz of the heliports, ferries gradually giving way to quieter industrial zones. Passing La /Guardia airport and the massive prison island of Rickers, the stretch of water known as Hells Gate (ie get the tide right!), the upmarket Long Island properties were soon abeam.  Pushing on through the Long Island Sound right the night in spite of some foul tide, we had the jerrycan refuelling logistics down to a fine art, together with collecting the overflow fuel for recycling.  Wednesday morning at 08.00 we were at ‘The Race’ (ieanother get the tide right) and were soon able to sail the last stretch up the Providence River past Newport and to the famous Hinckley yard.  Here we stopped for 30 minutes to collect two fuel tank access plates I had ordered.  Then on a further five miles to pick up a municipal mooring at the sleepy harbour town of Bristol.  The bay soon filled with the pleasing Wednesday evening sight of a sailing race.

William left in a hire car the following morning and we explored a little.  The town seems archetypically New England- clapboard and timber shingled houses, carefully tended gardens and window boxes, US flags everywhere. Many houses have a plaque with date and name of original builder some going back to the 18th century.

By lunchtime we were back onboard tackling the dirty fuel and tanks. Emptying the cavernous cockpit locker for access to the tanks always results in a complete pickle on board. One access plate was soon fitted and several prune-like lumps of sludge satisfyingly removed. By late afternoon I was back ashore walking the mile and half to ACE hardware for more jerrycans to fully empty the tanks.  The job took that evening and the whole of the following day, Friday 3rd, the engine finally and thankfully re-started on clean fuel from clean tanks at 21.00.

Today Saturday 4th, we showered at the brand new refurbished Bristol Harbormaster facilities – then to Portsmouth (second town of this name) to refuel, fill water, and pump out (for US Coastal Waters are ‘no discharge zones’), en route for Newport eleven miles away.  We have met up with Vulcan Spirit (another UK northabout-bound boat) and should be back in synch with Hugur and Ayama by tomorrow.

This completes Exody’s ARC logs and the ongoing journey to Scotland via Canada, Greenland and Iceland can be tracked on https://my.yb.tl/exody/map-only/ and at exody.wordpress.com.

 

 

ARC USA begins

St Lucia to Tortola – approx 400 nautical Miles, April 21st to May 7th
Its Saturday 7th May and the starting gun goes in 90 minutes for the first leg from Nanny Cay, Tortola, British Virgin Islands- 44 boats the combined ARC USA and ARC Europe fleet set off on the shared first leg almost directly north to Bermuda 850 miles away.

Since the last blog, we have been home, cruised the 400 miles from St Lucia to BVI via Les Saintes, Antigua, Sint Maarten. We have made a whistlestop tour of a couple of prime spots in Virgin Gorda – Long Bay and ‘The Baths’ and then we of course had to make a stop at Peter Island before heading into the marina!

Our ARC USA log covering some of this is copied here. Our World cruising logs and position can now been seen on their website by searching under ARC USA and boat name Exody. Our position can also be tracked both during ARC USA and afterwards until we arrive home at https://my.yb.tl/exody/map-only/

 

May 2nd – Countdown to ARC USA

Anchored in Long Bay, Virgin Gorda, we are sheltering from the persistent rain under a grey sky but pleased to have found a beach anchorage to ourselves in the BVI, the destination apparently most heavily populated in the world with charter boats! It is a delightful archipelago that I first visited briefly in 1980 when nearby Tortola was the agreed delivery/handover point for my first sailing yacht purchase.

We now have just five days to go until the beginning of ARC USA.  This will take us from here to Portsmouth, near Norfolk Virginia via Bermuda. Since completing World ARC on 9th April, just over three weeks ago, we both took time for flying family ‘pitstops’ to the UK and Trinidad respectively – quite a culture – (and for me a climate) -shock.  Back on board Exody at Rodney Bay St Lucia ten days ago, we spent two solid days getting things back together after the internal repair and varnishing work that had been done by Messrs Vision and Pride.  It’s good to have the worst of the woodwork recovered close to its former glory after both a physical beating from nearly two years as a liveaboard and a solar beating through windows and hatches.  We are mostly pleased with their work but it just shows up how much is still to be done cum re-fit time!

Our cruise northward from St Lucia started on Saturday 23rd with a good 120 mile overnight sail, first in the lee of Martinique and then Dominica, both islands blanketing the trade winds and requiring engine use for a few hours. First stop was Les Saintes, an attractive small archipelago just to the south and part of French department, Guadeloupe, where we picked up a mooring just next to a popular snorkel site over a wrecked fishing boat.  It was Sunday so many daytrippers came snorkelling – arriving by swimming, canoeing, dinghying.  Ashore Monday we realised we were in France – fresh baguettes and croissants at the boulangerie, cafe at the cafe, and a general sense of style in the boutiques.

Tuesday 26th we set off at 05.00 for the 85 miles to Antigua, motoring again in the lee of Guadeloupe but then enjoying a great beam reach sail with favourable current, bringing us to the historic Nelson’s Dockyard in English Harbour well before sunset.  Although busy for Antigua Sailing Week, we found a spot to anchor, dinghied across the harbour for a sundowner and retreated to the boat to maximise our distance from the noise of the night’s reggae concert.  Spotted an Exody sistership ‘Rhumb’ being hauled out – recently completed the ARC – only about 50 odd Starlight 39’s built so good to see.  Ashore to clear-in Wednesday morning, we anxiously watched Exody drag toward the mangroves and hastened back just in time.  Invited by locally resident and keen sailing friend Bernie to join him for lunch at the lay-day dinghy racing on Pigeon Beach, we upped anchor and took Exody the couple of miles around to Falmouth Harbour anchoring off the beach amidst the loud music, the race commentaries and much beach-partying.  Wrist bands for the VIP tent magically appeared and we soon enjoyed a great barbecue, catching up with Bernie and also with Caroline who crews with him and had also been on Aretha in World ARC- a small world!  Thursday we dinghied ashore early and walked across to Nelson’s Dockyard to see Bernie’s Team Taz – 20 crew (ideally each 200 lbs) required for a 52 foot racer.  Great respect for a very different type of sailing!  Later we watched many of the 100-odd registered racing yachts of all shapes and sizes return to Falmouth before our evening departure for Sint Maarten.

The downwind 80 mile passage was fairly slow under genoa alone and we anchored at Simpson’s Bay around noon, just an hour ahead of our long time (ie 1980-1982) Trinidad sailing buddies now on Hallberg Rassy 39, Ventus – Anthony, Michael and Mike with new (to us anyway) crew Nadine. We anchored just outside the lifting bridge to the lagoon and within sight and earshot of the busy international airport.  It was amazing how 35 years just slipped away as the reminiscences and familiar anecdotes were shared easily over drinks and a meal ashore.   Saturday saw us and Ventus twice visiting the large chandleries inbetween mutual boat visitations comparing 39-footers over tea then rum and wine.  Sunday we dinghied the two miles through the lagoon to check out the French side of the island, Saint Martin. Finding virtually everything firmly closed – Mayday holiday on top of Sunday tradition.  Yet we managed to find lunch,(Euros on this side, US Dollars the other), a small chinese supermarket, and on the way back a gas station for the outboard tank – well located to service both vessels and cars. The massive Simpsons Bay lagoon is noted as the largest ‘garage’ for superyachts in the Caribbean so it was interesting to observe yet another side to this boating game, perhaps with even deeper pockets than the racers!

Once again we departed a little before sunset on May 1st for our last 80 mile sail of this mini-cruise, again mainly downwind and down current across the Anegada Passage.  The winds were very light so engine was on again for five hours before we could make 4-5 knots under genoa alone in the early hours.  Throughout the night lightning bursts like tracers in the sky surrounding us, but thankfully at a distance. Made our landfall here at Virgin Gorda just after dawn, passing close by Branson’s Necker Island and anchoring at Gun Creek for breakfast before clearing in.  We passed Ayama on the way in, located Hugur on the AIS, heard Garlix on the radio and met Starblazer at Customs- so the remnants of the World ARC family are about to reconvene- some for ARC USA, some for ARC Europe.

Last Lap of World ARC !

Brazil to Grenada Passage – 1712 miles , 3rd to 13th March

Windward Islands Cruise – 200 miles; 14th March to 9th April

World ARC is finished!  We have come full circle and are back in St Lucia.  In some ways it seems like yesterday and in other ways a decade since we were last here just 16 months ago in December 2014!

Since arriving in Grenada from Brazil in early March after a relatively fast passage, we have enjoyed nearly a month lingering a little longer- but still not long enough – in some favourite Caribbean haunts.  The experience, as before in Australia and South Africa, enhanced by local knowledge and contacts.  This time my St Vincentian-passported brother Martin in Union Island and our old Trinidadian friend Mike Connell, now settled in Bequia.

The period has been tinged with concern with things at home since I have two family members hospitalised as I write.  I have been pleased to be able to fit in a trip home to visit before we embark on the next stage of our sailing adventure.  We will cruise swiftly northwest via Guadeloupe, Antigua and St Martin to Tortola in the British Virgin Islands where we join ARC USA in early May.  We plan to visit old friends in Antigua and to meet up with a Trinidad boat in St MArtin.  At least 6 of the World ARC fleet will reconvene in Nanny Cay since the first leg of ARC USA to Bermuda is shared with ARC Europe.  We’ll be in Portsmouth- near Norfolk Virginia by the third week in May and hopefully New York by the end of the month.  From there the plan is to sail on northward in company with Ayama and Hugur  via Greenland, Iceland and the Faeroes then home to the west coast of Scotland by mid August.

The fleet has started to disperse from Rodney Bay and when we get back to Exody, we’ll probably be only the boat left.  But we know we have a new family in the World ARC crews and we are sure to meet them all again!

Here is the last batch of eight  worldcruisingclub.com published logs covering the last 5/6 weeks.

 

Days 415-418: Magic carpet to the equator.

The Brazil current ‘lifted’ Exody over 80 miles in the first two days out from Brazil, adding nearly 2 knots to our speed, whooshing us across the equator back into the northern hemisphere at 08.30 yesterday morning, 5th March. We have been in the southern hemisphere for over a year since crossing on 18th February 2015 just before the Galapagos landfall.

As if to remind us of our step toward home waters, the cloud and the rain have rolled in two days in a row with heavy downpours and low visibility. The wind has been everywhere from SE to NNE putting us goosewinged, on a reach, occasionally even close-hauled as we steadily climb the shoulder of South America northwest towards the Caribbean, ticking off French Guyana, Suriname, Guyana, Venezuela away to the west. Currently nearly 200 miles offshore and approaching the ‘cone’ of the Amazon delta, our day’s runs since starting at 10.30am on Thursday 3rd have been 183, 183 and 163. Our route goes straight to a waypoint off Grenada, passing no closer than 80 miles to the South American mainland and leaving Trinidad and Tobago well to port. We are on a shipping route and have passed several in both directions. After three days, we are once again within a few miles of Hugur catching one glimpse of her sail just before sunset last night. The sea is relatively smooth, the nights dark with virtually no moon, the stars spectacular in the clear spells.

Leaving Fortaleza was eventful. We had to leave in order of arrival to minimise the risk of anchor tangles. A local anchored boat’s floating stern line soon found Exody’s keel. A diver and a dinghy acting as a tug helped free us, but not for long as our rope cutter then found and cut the floating line in return! We were third boat across the ‘gated’ start taking our own time at 10.32- the last of the nine starting boats just making it out by the 11.00 deadline.

As usual, it has taken the customary 48 hours to get our sealegs and back into the passage-making routine. Yesterday we had dolphins first leaping then at the bow for a full hour. Last night, we popped the first bottle of red wine for the leg- still enjoying the Ayama Leopard Spot. Today Mother’s day we enjoyed emails from both daughters in England and send best to my Mum in Scotland.

1180 miles to run to Grenada – ETA Sunday 13th/Monday 14th March.

Days 419-420: a Pepper and a Porsche…

…….presumably take their name from Cayenne 80 miles to the southwest in French Guyana. Early this morning, Tuesday 8th March, we passed the halfway mark and the conveyor belt of a current began to accelerate up to 2.5 knots. Sustaining 8.5 to 9 knots this afternoon and onwards, Exody is striding along, passing the Brazilian/French Guyana border this evening and now skirting the edge of the continental shelf. Our day’s runs have been 163 and 187- tomorrow’s should be over 200. The wind has settled down to a consistent northeasterly at 12-15 knots and the close reach sailing in quiet seas is comfortable – except that we can not risk opening the hatches and windows for a bit more cabin ventilation !!

The torrential rain and grey skies of the weekend have given way to much brighter conditions so we, (and the batteries) are happy! On the battery front, we have the towing generator out full time (taking the hit of 5-8 miles run per day) , the wind generator is effective on this point of sail and of course the solar panels. We have only run the engine to support the SSB on the cloudy morning when Exody was net controller.

This morning, Aretha appeared on the horizon and slowly overhauled us, still just 5 miles away to the south at sunset – good to buddy sail for a day! Starblazer is still benefiting from an enhanced inshore current of their own and Hugur has pulled ahead. Garlix, as usual, in the lead 130 miles away. Meanwhile Makena is leapfrogging her way through the fleet having started late and will make up the 50 miles to pass us during Thursday we think.

Life on board ticks over – with our thoughts now drawn to life after World ARC!

ETA Grenada now definitely Sunday 13th sometime with 700 miles to run as at midnight Tuesday.

Day 421: Sunset over Suriname

The orange glow to the west in the cloudless sky lingered long after the stars were sparkling.

The day had started dramatically at 02.30 with another glow to the west. Orange first shining brightly behind a cloud. Wrong place, wrong time, wrong colour for the sun or moon, too massive for a flare. It burst above the cloud and streaked across the night sky with a long red tail, splitting into two distinct fireballs. It turned out to be a rocket launched from an EU range in French Guyana. So I was told by Caspar of Aretha on the VHF. They, along with Makena and Hugur had shared the sight. Hugur also saw burning material fall into the sea nearby – so the World ARC fleet were lucky to miss the fiery jettisoned components!

Our day’s run of 207 was the first to break the 200 barrier, albeit assisted by over 2 knots of current on average! Six days and 1100 miles into the leg, we have averaged just over 7.5 knots and reckon we have had total current ‘lift’ so far of nearly 200 miles. Today we crossed the ‘border’ between French Guyana and Suriname, our rhumb line now taking us offshore across the long bight in the south american mainland towards Tobago.

It was a superb day at sea with fantastic clarity of light, clear sunny skies, benign seas and sufficient wind to keep us moving along sweetly along with the equatorial current. We were treated to a visit by a large pod of large dolphins, gambling playfully for about an hour at our bow. Exody now gliding effortlessly upwind, hatches open, over an almost flat sea at over seven knots with less than ten knots of wind. We dined in the cockpit ending a memorable day at sea.

ETA Grenada Sunday 13th morning

Days 422,423: Weather !

After two near perfect days and nights of gentle trade wind sailing, today, Friday 11th March brought weather! Not just squalls but large banks of cloud and rain with associated disturbed and reduced winds. Wind from all directions- west, via north to southeast, none in excess of 15 knots, much less than 5. So we’ve had the engine off and on, the sails set from goose-winged to close-hauled and back again and again! Our patience has been just a little stretched. Few things jangle a sailor’s nerves more than flogging sails and, when the wind finally settled directly astern at about 6 knots, conditions for this torture were ideal! I lost my resolve after a couple hours stowed all sail and took to the ‘steel wings’ (as Hugur has called the engine).

Yesterday, Thursday 10th, we were 200 miles off the coast of Guyana crossing the ‘border’ with Venezuela today. The very familiar footprints of Trinidad and Tobago come up next 150 miles off the port bow.

This evening we are within 25 miles of Aretha, Makena and Starblazer. Just caught a ‘visual’ of the overtaking Makena in the binoculars early yesterday morning 12 miles to the south and it’s been good to be within VHF range this far into a long leg.

We have had two superb ‘nearly a green flash’ sunsets, last night’s toasted with Marian’s Caiparinha- almost as good as Allegro’s. The new moon now providing welcome illumination for a couple of hours.

Our day’s runs have been reducing- 180 and 147 but we are fortunate still to have favourable equatorial current of about 1 knot helping us on our way for the last stretch to St George’s Grenada.

At 21.00 Friday 11th – 1481 run, 231 to go- ETA Sunday 13th.

Day 424: ‘Side by side we stand,……

‘Islands of the blue Caribbean sea,
This our native land,
We pledge our lives to thee,
For every creed and race have an equal place,
And may God bless this nation’

So with a tuneful rendition of the T&T national anthem we saluted Tobago coming into view 35 miles to the east, the closest we’ll get by boat to the twin island state of Trinidad and Tobago, Marian’s homeland. The ARC routing and programme, our own onward travel on ARC USA and the recent unfortunate piracy incidents near to Trinidad have combined to make this so. Pity since it is home waters for both of us in a way – I worked here and lived on my last boat for a spell. We both left from Trinidad for our first transatlantic ‘uphill’ via Bermuda and Azores to Ireland back in 1982. We plan to visit family and friends by air from St Lucia, and are pleased that we did spend Xmas 2014 at Chaguaramas with Exody and our own family on board.

The wind never came back last night and, under power, we came up with and are still abreast of Makena, both motoring gently toward the last waypoint before the final overnight stretch to St Georges, Grenada 110 miles away. The contrast to yesterday could not be greater- bright sun, deep blue sea, puffy clouds, fantastic viz- everything that goes with a classic trade wind day- except the breeze! Our day’s run at 10.30 was 150 miles, half of it motored, the current still lifting us a little.

I had woken for my 09.00 radio net duty and watch this morning to Marian hauling in on the fishing line. We landed a very fine 5kg, 1 metre Dorado/ Mahi Mahi, bright yellow before it faded. With a refined technique for gaffing by the mouth not the body, we brought it on board bloodlessly!

The wind came back by evening and Makena came up real close for some aerial shots with their gyrocopter camera. Buzzing drone-like overhead, green and red lights flashing – expertly launched, guided and recovered by Luc and Sara. Both boats captured under genny alone with one of the most superb sunsets as a backdrop – a great way to record and celebrate this last night of the final ocean passage of our circumnavigation. The pan fried fresh Dorado added to the special sense of occasion.

Days 425-432: Circumnavigation, second place, new crew, fireworks.

The firework display from Calivigny Island was an unexpected bonus last night ,Saturday 19th March, seen over Hog Island from our anchorage on the west side in Mt Hartman Bay on the South Coast of Grenada. Breaking in our new crew Pete and Sally with some short hops exploring this delightful part of Grenada before heading north toward St Lucia.

We had arrived in the smart Port Louis marina at St George’s following Makena in and sailing all the way to the finish line a week ago today on Sunday 13th. The last night of the leg from Brazil was a gentle sail with Makena in sight, my brother Martin seeing her orange chute passing St David’s Harbour. He is there from Union Island hauling one of his several good ships, Satori. We took just over 10 days for the 1700 miles and, with an average of 1.25 knots current, we had 300 miles for free.

Exody was last in Port Louis in December 2014 so this completed our circumnavigation.

We were soon sorted with lunch at the Victory bar, laundry submitted, customs and immigration completed just before their 14.00 weekend closure. Here we met an Italian guy amazingly doing ocean passages on a jet ski, just in from Trinidad. Collecting Guinness Book of Records accolades and promoting good causes in remote places at the same time!

Monday 14th we hired a car for lunch rendezvous with Martin at the beach bar in St David’s Harbour. We last saw Martin when he left us in Panama February 2015, so great to see him again, this time patching concrete hull repairs on Satori. St David’s the easternmost of several large yards along this beautiful coast of multiple protected fjords.

At True Blue resort in the evening we met joining crew, Pete and Sally fresh in from UK for three nights on shore before boarding. Also amazingly bumped into a work colleague from Scotland, Martin Kerr with his wife – in Grenada indulging their hobby on a photographic/diving mission.

The week soon went by with a visit to the quaint town of St George’s – highlights being the colourful fishing fleet, rotis at the Nutmeg restaurant and treats at the newly opened Chocolate House. A day of boat jobs for us next whilst Pete and Sally circumnavigated the island by car, followed by an evening reception with lobster dinner at the Yacht Club. The World ARC tour Thursday took us to the Concord waterfall for a swim, the Grand Etang lake and a historic spice production estate. At the Friday World ARC reception round the Port Louis pool and between rain showers we were pleased to win second place on the last leg and enjoyed a great local meal.

We left Saturday lunchtime beating upwind under reefed genny alone and against the current, laying the entrance to Mt Hartman Bay and the busy anchorage to the west of Hog Island – 60 boats I counted. Crew enjoying sea baths in the morning, we moved around to Saga Cove on the east side of Hog Island to find a snorkelling spot.

For Sunday night we anchored off the bijou Whisper Cove Marina meeting up with Scot – Matt on ‘Superted V’ – for welcoming drinks aboard. Last met in East London, he and his wife have just completed a 7 year circumnavigation. Nearby at the marina another Scottish boat ‘Nae Hassle’ and we saw a Stornoway based boat in Saga Cove- a small world!

Days 433-442: Epic, Lobster, Turtles, Barracuda

We have today anchored in Tobago Cays, that pearl of the Grenadines that still matches or indeed tops most of the special places we have visited around the world. But it is much more commercial and organised now with beach barbecue and other services like baguette delivery, mooring buoys, national park rangers etc. We share the main anchorage between Jamesby and Baradal with about 40 other craft. The water is the same translucent turquoise we remember and the turtles far more plentiful.

It’s Wednesday 30th March and ten days since our last log- ten days spent making our way up from south Grenada via St David’s Harbour, then a close hauled sail to windward of Grenada for Tyrell Bay Carriacou and on to Clifton Harbour, Union Island, Petit St Vincent (PSV) and Chatham, Union Island.

Union has been home base for my brother since the mid 70’s when I consequently made my first visit. We cruised the Grenadines several times during my time in Trinidad between 1978-1982 and have visited since – so this is ‘home waters’ in many ways. However it’s been a real pleasure to linger a little longer, see more anchorages and to share our crew’s first time wonder – “epic” being a favourite descriptor!

Last week began on Monday 21st with an explore ashore at Lower Woburn near the Whisper Cove Marina and opposite the large Clarkes Court yard where a substantial marina is also being built. Two or three small local shops got our business but best of all was the ‘Meet & Meat’ at Whisper Cove itself – a first class but bijou butcher and deli. We had capuccinos and internet at the marina cafe before setting off, upwind again, for the two long tacks to St David’s – nine miles to make three. Here with his boat Satori just launched at sunset, we dined at the beach bar with brother Martin and were joined by the crew of Allegro – the boat just lifted and they staying at nearby La Sagesse.

Satori left at first light next morning for their longer trip to Union and we followed 07.30. One long 5 mile tack out before we could lay the course for Carriacou reasonably. By the middle of the day we were abreast then ahead of Satori. We later heard that they took 13 hours and 13 tacks to make Union just before sunset. A cloudy day, wet and windy- it was not the most relaxing passage to start with! We learnt (again!) about the importance of thoroughly securing all hatches and one crew succumbed to mal-de-mer before rapidly recovering for a bacon sandwich lunch! The squally weather brought veering winds and the latter part of the sail north of Grenada past Ile Diamante, Ile de Ronde and Kick ’em Jenny was much better. We closed Tyrell Bay and anchored close off Carricou Marine in less than four metres of crystal clear water.

Next afternoon we went around the corner to pick up a mooring off Sandy Isle overnight – a bit blustery but the morning brought slightly quieter conditions for a trip and swim ashore and then across to moor at Paradise Beach. Marian and I found the Fidel ‘container’ boutique then lunch at ‘Off the Hook’ beach bar – where unfortunately the advertised barber services needed to be pre-booked! Great aspect from the pristine beach out to Sandy Isle and Union beyond. Meanwhile Pete and Sally took the local route taxi/minibuses via capital Hillsborough to the traditional boatbuilding village of Windward. They were rewarded by seeing a large vessel under construction and enjoyed the local route taxi experience including spectacular vistas from the road across the island. We met them back at Carriacou Marine where we cleared out of Grenada, collected our laundry and took on water and fuel ready for the departure north.

Friday 25th we sailed north the 10 miles to Clifton Harbour, Union, anchoring in our usual spot next to Martin’s Scaramouche mooring. Ashore for clearing in at the airport- with the customary “you Martin brudder?” comments from officials and other locals, drinks and tasty lunch at niece Zoe’s Snack Shack, we then rested the afternoon, catching up with Hugur, Tulasi and APlus2. Later Zoe cooked for the family and crew to celebrate her dad’s birthday up the hill at Martin’s house. Dinner, company, night views and moon fantastic but on return to Exody we found our small spare outboard stolen and the main hatch lock tampered with. Sad story for this popular cruising area.

Reported to police next morning and spent rest of day doing laundry, swimming pool, showering, relaxing and internet chez Martin, Sally taking in a ‘copilot’ flight with Martin to St Vincent and back -15 minutes each way – picking up folk for Union Island’s Easterval festival and doing a supermarket run!

Sunday Pete and Sally joined 8 other World ARC-ers from Ayama, Hugur and Wayward Wind on the one day Scaramouche trip to Mayreau, Tobago Cays and Palm Island – enjoyed by all. Finished the day with sundowners on Happy Island.

We stocked up and left on Monday for short hops to PSV for lunch and swim – the rhythmic music from nearby Petit Martinique carrying many miles to sea, then on to Chatham Bay on the lee-side of Union joining Aretha and Garlix. A relatively quiet anchorage after the buzz of Union, though busy next day with a cruise ship re-laying customers ashore and back all day. We could not help feeling there should be more integration here of opportunities for local traders and businesses. Four beach bars had barely a customer and an articulate and talented craftsmen visiting by the week from St Vincent was selling very few souvenirs. The anchorage was gusty but comfortable with good swimming and snorkelling from the boat. Tuesday evening saw us with Ayama and Aretha at Bollhead beach restaurant for obligatory (ie whilst in the Grenadines) barbecue lobster cooked by Rasta Tim. Martin and his two sons joined overland by trailbike.

Today we left after breakfast for the 10 mile motorsail tacking past Mayreau and Catholic Island to the magical turquoise channel between Petit Rameau and Petit Bateau. Tulasi, APlus 2, Garlix and Makena are all here. Just before nightfall, Martin’s son Lee turned up on his fine sport fishing boat ‘Single Fin’ delivering a barracuda ‘caught to order’ at Marian’s request plus a bonus small tuna from his large catch of the day. Anchored off favourite island Jamesby eclipsing Union Island behind, we can see barely another boat looking aft from the cockpit- just Mayreau, Palm and Carriacou as Sarah, Luc and Kai from Makena join us for a pre-prandial Rum Punch.

Days 443-454: World ARC done- the family disperses!

Here I am with our departing crew at St Lucia’s Heewanora airport on Monday 11^th April, this time I am headed home too for a family pitstop.  Marian is at the smaller Vigie airport boarding for Trinidad.  Here with two UK-bound flights carrying 600 odd folk leaving in two hours, it feels more a British motorway service station on the M1 than a Caribbean airport!  Sharp contrast to the last twenty one months of being boat and fleet bound, in the company of just ourselves or our immediate World ARC family of about forty people.

World ARC wound up on Saturday 9^th with a parade of sail from Marigot Harbour to cross the start/finish line in Rodney Bay.  We processed in length order so Exody was second in line.  Two behind us was Garlix chafing at the bit under full mainsail  like a tethered race horse, barely managing to keep her place in line at 5 knots behind ’certified Turtle’ Chat Eau Bleu.  The final dinner and prizegiving was a special event with ministerial guests, steel band, live music and good local food.  We were treated to an excellent, well observed and amusing boat by boat overview by our yellowshirt Victor – he himself having grown through the experience like the rest of us.

Since our last log from the Tobago Cays, we spent a further morning snorkel-exploring – great water clarity, fish, reefs and green turtles (brown actually but green because they dine on seagrass).  Close on the wind a single tack took us northward to Bequia on Friday 1^st April,  Mustique off to starboard together with dramatic uninhabited Battowia and Baliceaux.  Union, Carriacou and Grenada all still visible to the south astern.

As the anchor dragged on our last short visit to Bequia, we were pleased when mooring man ‘Phat Shag’ found us a great spot really close inshore, just off the docks of the iconic Whaleboner and Frangipani beach bars.  With the best developed services in the Grenadines, I lined up a genoa repair and spent a half day making new guardwires with Dan of Piper Marine .  We met Trinidadian friend Mike Connell and wife Arlene and enjoyed seeing their self-developed home cum holiday let building.  Sunday 3^rd we hired a 4WD covering most roads on the island: turtle sanctuary, architecturally interesting houses, the airport, the beach resort at Friendship and the fort for sunset.  We lunched on great creole fare at Dawn’s on Lower Bay.  Monday Pete and Sally ferried to St Vincent for a taxi tour whilst we collected the sail, refitted the guardwires, provisioned and chilled. 

We joined several of the fleet leaving at first light Tuesday 5^th for the 60+ mile trip north to Marigot:  Makena, Ayama, Garlix, Chateau Bleu.  Motoring for a spell in the lee of St Vincent, we made a good course once the trades came back, Makena  peeling off to moor at the scenic Pitons.  Soon we were docked stern to the delightful and picturesque Capella Marigot facilities- crew quick to hunt down the showers and complimentary pool access.  We share the dock with an immaculate sailing superyacht and a large square rigger.

Pete and Sally were released from boat cleaning and polishing to take a rewarding tour of the island one day.  We enjoyed a World ARC welcome at the relaxed Café Maygo and on the last night were treated by crew to a meal at Julietta’s – with the best view over Marigot.

Exody was first out for the Parade of Sail on Saturday 9^th a two hour passage north to Rodney Bay.  We were re-joined by our South Atlantic crew David Toy, now back for more crewing on board Aretha.  Sailing under reefed main and engine, it was quite a task to maintain speed and separation in the gusty conditions.  The evening function was at once enjoyable and poignant as we sadly began the process of unravelling our close knit World ARC family.  We all received a tasteful and comprehensive momento photo album, certificates of circumnavigation and yet another World ARC flag!  Much effort was subsequently spent diverting our end of rally emotions with the activity of signing each other’s books and flags!

Joining Pete and Sally at beachside restaurant  Jambe de Bois after their brief tour of the Pigeon Island park on Sunday, we enjoyed excellent cocktails and dinner – first class service and atmosphere, connecting with the owner Barbara , an old friend of my brother’s.  .

With all four of us flying out in the afternoon, Monday morning was fairly manic- or should we say focused.  Starting early- packing, cleaning, clearing, stowing to make way for the internal varnish work we have commissioned to be done using the rare opportunity of our brief absence.   We hope that the work of the small team lead by Vision and Pride lives up to their monikers!  

In the meantime all four of us are contemplating life on a different planet just a few hours flight away.

Bye Bye Brazil

Salvador- Baia de Todos os Santos- mini cruise: 9th-12th February,  60 miles

Salvador to Fernanda de Noronha Passage: 15th – 20th February, 696 miles

Fernanda de Noronha Stopover – 20th-25th February

Fernanda de Noronha to Fortaleza Passage 25th -28th February, 371 miles

Fortaleza Stopover 28th February to 2nd March

Yes we are embarking on the final leg of our circumnavigation tomorrow morning 3rd March.  Leaving Fortaleza, Brazil for Grenada approximately 1700 miles away.  We were last in Grenada just before Xmas 2014 so, by yet another definition, this will complete our circumnavigation three weeks before the end of World ARC early next month in St Lucia.

In contrast to most other departure points, we are in internet heaven here, free, fast and at the chart table- what a dream.  Hence you’ll see a couple photos uploaded at least on our last post.

It has been fascinating to get a glimpse of South America, touching on the edges of Brazil, its largest country and economy.  The diversity in wealth is clear to see but the vibrancy of the culture and people is evident everywhere and we have not felt, in our very limited exposure, unsafe in any way.   It has been great to experience Carnival both in the city and in the remoter island communities.  The stopover in Fernanda de Noronha gave us a window into a Brazilian holiday playground.  Our crew since Cape Town, David, left here and eventually made it home to Scotland a few days later after his flight out was cancelled.  Here in Fortaleza we are berthed at the sadly dilapidated marina but again have enjoyed the energy of the city and its people.

Now we are heading on our last lap northwestwards folloing the shoulder of the south american coast, past the mouth of the Amazon, past Marian’s original home of Trinidad and Tobago and on to Grenada.

Days 389-395: Carnival, Cruise and Corpse!

Today Friday 12th, we are esconced back at our berth in the Terminal Nautico Marina after a three day mini-cruise of the Baia de Todos-os-Santos.

Last weekend 6th to 8th we spent one evening with the carnival bands and that was enough for us! Not sure whether its just not the Trinidad Carnival we both remember fondly or that we are 30 years older – maybe a bit of both.  Maybe we were simply not in the right place at the right time to see the best!  The music is not as readily engaged (all beat, few tunes!) and the people seemed less lost in their joyous abandonment (few smiles!).  The exceptions were a small professional band of about a dozen dancers who expertly entertained us, drawing in sometimes parallel talent from the bystanders, and secondly a female samba band we had seen the week earlier.  David had more of an appetite than us and was out three nights in a row!

Tuesday 9th we headed across the bay with Makena around the top of Ilha Frade to the delightful anchorage south of Ilha Bom Jesus.  Here Luc taxied us ashore and we walked the car-less village streets where everyone was still in carnival mode – music blaring, costumes aplenty and many folk relaxing with a beer or swimming in the sea.  The tiny village was crowded and we managed to get briefly lost before retracing our steps. A local sailing vessel of circa 15 metres, broad as a dinner plate and with sails apparently of orange velour took off from its berth.  After a brilliant sunset, Makena kindly wined and dined us along with their other ‘house guests’ – 11 up including Kai.  We swam in the morning and marvelled at the changing landscape as the sandbanks showed themselves in the spring low tides.  A single scarlet ibis (or similar) treated us to several flights across the bay between the mangroves.

Wednesday morning we set off to ride the incoming tide for the 15 mile trip up the Rio Paraguacu, a delightful winding route, once past the oil rig construction. Passing the nearly uninhabited tropical landscape, a 16th century fort and a few remote homes, to the town of Maragogipe, where we anchored alone off the long pier.  Here Marian and I dinghied ashore.  Another town still in the throes of post carnival relaxation, we had wondered about the Guardia Civil presence at the pier. As we returned, the school river bus was towing in a corpse rather unceremoniously by the foot.  We did not join the bystanders to watch the gruesome spectacle of transfer from water to police ‘hearse’. Fitful sleep for the night mainly out of concern that we were all alone at this anchorage- but it was also hot and windless.  Benign boat borne activity seemed to go on through the night mainly long paddled dugouts, some with engines, the fishermen’s voices carrying far in the quiet stillness.

Thursday 11th, we started 07.30 sharp to catch the outgoing tide, anchoring 90 minutes later and nearly 10 miles downriver in up to 2 knots of current by the islet of Ilha de Arromba in the Canal de Dentro – a splendid isolated and beautiful spot close by the mangroves where David rose for breakfast and coffee.  Off again by 10.30 we motored on out of the river toward Ilha Itaparica, the largest of the islands in the bay.  By 13.00 we had found our way into the welcoming small marina. Here we left David supine still recovering from sun, carnival, bad night’s sleep or whatever and lunched ashore on local Bahian dish Moquexica Camarones (??) – a fish stew with mainly prawns.  A brief walk toward the village found us a shop/cafe and a few fruit stalls.  Most of the properties have tiny frontages/plots and appear to be mostly holiday places- colourful, colonial, modern and tumbledown all apply!  The overall effect is of a quiet, charming laid back village – such a contrast to the City of Salvador, just 13 miles across the water.  It felt quite safe.  There is a natural mineral water well here and it also feeds the marina supply so we topped up Exody’s tanks.  We dined on board on tarted up pizzas and bubbly, David now more himself in the relative cool of the evening.

Early this morning, Friday 12th, Marian and I took a walk through the village cobbled streets to the north end of the island past another ancient fort, the navy’s degaussing station and several small church squares.  We happened upon a small shop with morning rolls – a treat for breakfast en route back across to Salvador.  Here we refuelled at the handy mid-harbour barge, the attendant ironically asking us for a box of matches.  We also found they had cases of beer and coke- saved a taxi trip!  Back at our berth soon after 10, our papers for outward clearance were lodged with agent Ramon. Now counting down (ie boat jobs, provisioning, internet activity) to departure Monday 15th for the Fernando de Noronha archipelago nearly 700 miles away.

Days 396-403: Birthday arrival at Fernando de Noronha

Anchored here this morning at 09.00 February 20th, my birthday, after just under five days mostly upwind passage from Salvador.  Although the swell is impressive, and the crashing waves ashore dramatic and sometimes noisy, it is great to be at anchor with the hatches open allowing the first moving air inside Exody for what seems like an age and the pleasure of a full night’s uninterrupted sleep ahead! This time last year we were enjoying as my birthday treat the drift snorkelling at Kicker Rock, Galapagos.

We had a superb long lunch ashore at the Mergulhao bistro overlooking the anchorage. Kind of tapas: deep fried cheese in cane sugar, filet mignon with cheese and pineapple, shrimp balls.  I dipped out to clear in with the Port Captain officials then we shared a heavenly chocolate sweet and the most carefully prepared coffee I have seen- individual fabric filters suspended on an elegant small ‘gallows’ over each cup carefully filtered at the table.  And the waiters even spoke English- a first so far for Brazil.

This is a special place nearly 200 miles offshore the ‘shoulder’ of Brazil: part nature/marine reserve, part niche tourist draw – for example a ‘wedding of people’ as Sara of Makena said!  The geography is reminiscent of the Marquesas- phallic volcanic forms, green lush landscapes, superb beaches; the weather (at least today) more reminiscent of Scotland – frequent showers and cloudy skies. We are just two of the World ARC group here, ourselves and Makena – most strikingly the little and the large of the fleet when viewed from ashore!  Though when approaching by dinghy both boat’s hulls disappear dramatically from view in the deep swells as if in mid ocean.

We spent the weekend of 13th/14th in Salvador: provisioning at the B&Q-like Mercantil Rodriguez, dining out on Hugur and then at the posh DAS restaurant at the ‘other’ marina, a visit by Marian and David to the Salvador Shopping Mall (where David spent much time and not a little frustration over the Brazilian complexities surrounding simply buying internet data in chunks of any more than 150mb), and a handful of final boat jobs including refreshing some of the corroded SSB radio connections that David and I had first installed in Scotland nearly two years ago.

Monday 15th we settled our marina bill, secured a further fresh water delivery and awaited sailmaker Eduardo delivering our ‘stitch in time’ repaired genoa. Treated ourselves to a third lunch at the ‘weigh your plate’ place and set off at 15.00 for the 700 mile passage north.

The currents are adverse for half the way and the winds can also be on the nose for the east, then northeast routing.  We were very lucky to avoid tacking though were uncomfortably close hauled for the first three days. We used the engine for about 15 hours in total to keep ‘pointing’ and to counter the current.  After so much downwind tradewind sailing we really are not used to the discomforts of upwind work- the heel of the boat, the motion, the sea spray in the cockpit, the inability to open hatches and the water regularly coming over the deck, inevitably finding its way in!  It took us all longer than usual to reacclimatise and get to ‘normal’ appetites by which time the wind had veered a little south of east giving us two days of fine beam reaching mostly at well over 7 knots with positive current.  Our four full day’s runs were 117, 149,136 and 172.  Some squalls, lightning, torrential bursts of rain and gusty winds but overall a good passage. And for our crew, departing from here, quite a contrast to the relative ease of the long tradewind South Atlantic crossing legs.

Days 404-410: Buggies, Beaches, Beautiful People

That’s Fernanda de Noronha for you!  The VW beetle based beach buggies are ubiquitous for locals and tourists alike – the characteristic engine noise swiftly bringing memories of my student days dismantling and rebuilding beetles!  Beaches – reputed to be amongst the top in the world and plenty bronzed young couples enjoying them for this is a top honeymoon destination! There is also the dramatic volcanic landscape, the tropical vegetation with half the island and its waters as a fully protected national park.  The main village has characterful cobbled streets and the island boasts one five star hotel and 105 poussadas (guest houses).  Apparently visitor numbers are limited to 420 at a time in addition to the 2,600 permanent residents.

Exody was anchored for five days in Porto St Antonio where the heavy swell, and frequent rain showers ensured broken nights not dissimilar to some of those at sea.  By the time we left the evening before last, Thursday 25th, six other World ARC boats had arrived and Makena had left the day before.

We made the most of the short stopover.  We all took the island shuttle bus to the Sueste beach in the nature reserve, taking a guided snorkel to see turtles, lobster, octopus. David crammed a one-on-one PADI course with Atlantis into two days plus an evening finding the course, the instructor and the dives all worth the considerable mental and physical effort!  He took a room ashore for three nights.  Marian and I took the bus again, this time to the renowned Sancho beach, accessible only by two steep ladders through a narrow rock crevice.  First we walked the delightful boardwalk loop to the viewpoint over the Bay of Dolphins (Golfinhos) chatting with the resident biologist observing and counting the spinner dolphin activity.  Returning by the spectacular cliff path to descend to the beach for a swim and snorkel – then back up taking the cliff path north to view the two sisters islands and the anchorage beyond.  The well organised nature park facilities both here and at Sueste provided welcome fresh water beach showers and snack lunch. Thursday we collected David to gather his belongings from the fo’c’sle and enjoyed a farewell lunch at our favoured bistro Mergulhao- harbour view, English spoken, great tapas – style food!  Leaving for his plane, eight weeks since joining us in Cape Town, he later texted that it had been cancelled! We are yet to hear how he made it home to Scotland.

Tonight, Saturday 27th at 22.00, we have the loom of Fortaleza 50 miles ahead and the half moon just risen astern.  Five boats are converging for an early morning arrival there tomorrow and Chat Eau Bleu is just a mile behind.  The 370 mile passage has been straightforward though with heavy rain and cloud for part of each day. After the first night, we packed the mainsail away and sailed under heavily reefed genoa alone – this to slow our speed down to the 6 knots I had calculated to assure a daylight arrival for the fishing boat and wreck strewn approach to Fortaleza. The increasingly favourable Brazil current started at just under a knot and peaked at nearly three earlier today – far in excess of what I had allowed. With full sail we could probably be making 9 knots over the ground! It has felt odd and ironic to be managing boat speed downwards!  Lets hope the same current will help us optimise our speed north west on the last leg of World ARC to Grenada next week.

Days 411-414: it was like planes lining up to land at Heathrow….

…..as five boats homed in on Fortaleza first thing on the morning of Sunday 28th February.  Exody was first in, two miles behind(as they had been most of the night) were Chateau Bleu (from Recife) and then Hugur’s mast visible five miles away.  Behind them almost equally spaced Garlix (from Salvador)and Ayama.  The marina staff were nowhere to be seen so our ‘marinheiro’ was Luc of Makena who greeted each boat, led us in one by one, advised on anchor drop and then helped nudge sterns round for the tricky cross wind berthing stern-to and not too close to the unfortunately dilapidated metal pontoons!

No sooner tied up were we before Hugur were alongside and then Garlix.  Ropes and fenders adjusted,dinghies launched as stepping stones to the pontoons, we were soon availing ourselves of the Marina Park Hotel’s pool, showers and bar facilities!  For this marina is an integral part of a large and fairly lightly occupied hotel complex fairly central to the City.

It is played down as a stopover due to the poor condition of the facilities but we have enjoyed the plentiful water supply, a great night out on the town, including a memorable visit to the Pirata night club- energetic local dancing in traditional dress, live music and all of us on the floor (dancing that is!).  The supermarket and city generally seem more accessible than Salvador. The vast beachside walkway hosts all kinds of energetic activity in the evenings- running, skate boarding, cycling, roller skating plus copeira dancing- very many body beautiful Brazilians!

We’ve spent much time washing everything in sight, since from hereon in through the Caribbean water is paid for! We’ve also cleaned the underfloors, stocked up on fresh goods and today Wednesday 2nd March, we are ready to roll for the last formal leg of World ARC 2015/16.

Salvador !

St Helena to Salvador Passage: 19th January to 2nd February – 1930 miles

Salvador Stopover- first few days: 2nd to 5th February

Here we are in temperatures reaching 37 degrees with the sounds of Carnival ever present 24 hours a day- at least for the next few days.

The second half of the leg from Cape Town to here was much gentler than the first but our patience in the light winds and minimal engine use helped us to win first prize in the monohull cruising division for the 3650 miles to here from Cape Town.  The news of this was out there faster than we could deliver it with other folks Facebooks etc !

We have still to make a plan for cruising Brazil for the rest of the month, having been at sea for virtually all of January!

In the meantime we are looking forward to a few more days in Salvador, soaking up some carnival atmosphere and perhaps a cruise in the Baia de Todos-os-Santos.

As the internet appears half decent here we may also yet manage to illustrate this blog, though the unillustrated backlog is a now getting bit daunting!

Here are the 7 worldcruising.com logs covering the period.

 

Days 374-376: ” …..a persistent pattern of benign trade winds….

..to continue over the coming three days” said the WRI weather forecast on Wednesday morning- and so it has come to pass!  But today’s forecast says that the “light to  moderate trade winds will ease”.  This we do not want since the 10 to 15 knot winds we have been experiencing are just enough for us to average a reasonable 6 knots on a broad reach with the wind over the port quarter.  First three day’s runs since the start of 141,147 and 141 miles – 1500 miles to Salvador at 15.00 today. Exody is about 90 miles behind the leaders (Makena, Hugur, Aretha, Garlix, Tulasi) and the same from the nearest boat behind (Ayama). We saw one tanker yesterday headed for China but otherwise have the ocean to ourselves.

The seas are calm, the cloud comes and goes clearing to give us some glorious sunny conditions by day and delightful moonlit seas with bright stars at night.  Today Friday 22nd, a couple of squalls passed close by giving a smattering of rain and a spell of 20-24 knot winds.

Life on board ticks over – South African based whodunnits being read, journals written, one dish dinners baked, laptop projects being tackled (David treating himself to on-passage computer time).

 

Days 377,378: “looks like another beautiful day….with no wind!”

….is how Mindy of Wayward Wind and Luis of Allegro summarised the outlook at the end of the radio net this morning.

Exody needs 10 knots of wind to fill the sails when going downwind.  This is just enough to stop the rigging from clattering and the sails from flogging as they empty and fill even in the slightest swell. Today, unfortunately, we have had only 8 knots of wind and are lucky to make even 4 knots through the water.  Our two day’s runs to 15.00 each day have been 132 and 116 nautical miles – passing the third way point this morning on day 5 at sea. Thankfully the forecast is for an increase from Tuesday. All but three of the fleet have succumbed to some engine use – us for just 45 minutes and one for nearly a full day. With 1250 miles to run, we are conserving our 350 miles worth of fuel.

Last night the full moon shone over a cloudless night sky as we gentled along with near daytime visibility.  A ship passed in the distance headed for Panama. Today another on the reciprocal route from the shoulder of Brazil to Cape of Good Hope headed for China passed close across our bow at just one mile off.

The galley rota has recently produced bangers and mash, chicken cacciatore and baked pork chops with pumpkin and apple.  Tonight, we are still waiting for the fish to bite at dusk but otherwise it’s my turn and can creativity will reign.

 

Days 379,380 : Rolling again !

The trade winds have finally freshened a little this morning so after ‘gentling’ along and then, even slower, ‘ghosting’ yesterday we are now making over six knots. Our last two day’s runs have been 116 (again) and 122.  By midnight today Tuesday 26th, our 7th day at sea, we should pass the halfway point with just under a thousand miles to go.

Last night we dropped the clattering main and rigged our loose luffed foresail twinned with the poled out genoa for a quiet night. This morning we have kept these and rehoisted the full main now out to port. With three sails up (unusual for us), Exody is making the most of the 15 knot Force 4 easterly wind directly behind us. F Looks like it will be with us for the next week all the way to Salvador – fingers crossed!

It is good to have Ayama sailing close by but just out of sight ten miles to the south, otherwise the nearest boats are 100 miles away both ahead and behind.

The sun and the moon continue to shine bright in virtually cloudless skies and the deep blue sea remains calm.  We’ve even eaten round the saloon table without having to hold onto our plates and glasses the last two evenings.

Still no fish!

 

Days 380,381: Nibbles on the line

Three times the fishing reel has whirred out and we have run for the gaff and the leather gloves.  Twice we have felt a huge weight on the line that then disappeared.  Miraculously the original lure is still intact so a pair of(probably too large)fish somewhere have cuts in their lips- and we are thus resigned to more cans!

David has just about recovered from oversunning himself a little a couple of days ago, having read his book theoretically in the shade of the sails!  I have finished all six South African crime novels and Marian took time out today from reading and playing the computer at Scrabble to watch Casablanca! David’s stuffed butternut squash went down a treat as we eke out the last of the St Helena fruit and veg.

We have seen no ships for four days and this morning we had Starblazer about 30 miles northwest and Ayama about 40 miles south east of us.  It was good to chat with Ayama on the VHF a couple nights ago when she was closer.

Today Friday 28th, our ninth at sea, we are making much improved progress with the last two day’s runs of 143 and 165 miles.  This evening we have just passed the two thirds mark with under 700 miles to go – and so the countdown begins!  The trades are forecast to stay at the 13-18 knot, Force 4/5 level so we could be in Salvador by very late Monday 1st.  The leaders will make port on Sunday 31st.

Quiet flat seas have given way to a bigger rolling swell. The moon is waning and rising later so the nights are much darker, but by day the sun still shines!

 

Days 382,383: The sky was a study in purple and orange

We often wax lyrical about sunsets but tonight’s was particularly special due, surprisingly, to the extent of the grey cloud.  The cloud canopy was stunningly illuminated from below by the sun after it set turning it purple with orange edges, whilst still leaving glimpses through to blue and white beyond.  The experience perhaps enhanced by two glasses of house red – Ayama Leopard Spot, and appreciation of my bacon, potato and carrot ‘bake’. We dined in the cockpit since the evenings are getting lighter later, and warmer – still 28 degrees as I write at 10pm. Exody is still on GMT whilst Salvador is 3 hours minus- we’ve decided to change our clocks on arrival.

After bottoming out on speeds of under 5 knots nearly a week ago, I reckon we topped out with our last two day’s runs of 170 and 166, averaging about 7 knots.  The conditions have now,as they say,’softened’ so we are down to about 12 knots of wind and 5.5 knots of boat speed – still sailing goose-winged.  With about 335 to run to Salvador today, Saturday 30th, it now looks like we’ll be arriving in daylight Tuesday morning, February 2nd, rather than during Monday night.

Last night we caught and landed a perfectly sized tuna but it was unfortunately infested with little white parasites.  We subsequently read that these are harmless to humans but still glad we threw it back – not very appetising!

 

Days 384,385: Last lap – hot and windless !

The wind has dropped to about 5 knots and the cabin temperature has reached over 33 degrees C as we take the last 90 mile lap to Salvador overnight to arrive early morning.  Everyone is down below staying out of the sun and the heat.

With the lighter conditions our last two days runs have been 146 and 125 miles. Today, Monday 1st February, was our thirteenth at sea and we expect to be in Salvador almost exactly two weeks on from our St Helena start tomorrow, along with Ayama and Starblazer.  Six boats are already in sampling the delights of the city and land- based activities!

Earlier we dropped the main – sounded like it was clattering itself and the rigging to destruction and flew our loose luffed jib with the genoa instead.  With 8/9 knots of wind we were making 4 knots plus – satisfactory!  But not any longer with the reduced wind so, regrettably, the engine is now on. Our engine hours since Cape Town are,or were, only about 12 and keeping them low is not only good for fuel economy and our ears but also for being ‘placed’ in the rankings! There is a factored engine hours penalty added to all boats’ finishing times and typically those with the lower hours place well.

Last night four ships crossed our path all headed northwards – no avoiding action needed since nearest was 2.5 miles at closest point of approach – although that does seem very close at night! Kept the watchkeepers on their toes whilst I slept.

Exody was radio net controller today for the third time this leg – the reception or propagation has not been that good and it is all we can do to secure a complete roll call, let alone have time for quizzes, chats, poetry and banter – pity!

Culinary standards remain high- chinese stir fry mainly from cans and dried stuff last night followed by pineapple(canned), peach(dried) and orange(fresh) steeped in port;  home made smoked salmon and cream cheese pate for lunch.

Next log from Brazil

 

Days 385-388: First place into Salvador !

Chuffed at last night’s prizegiving event to win our first World ARC first for this, the longest leg. So tolerating the slatting sails and keeping the engine off during the second part of the leg from St Helena paid off! We had a total of only 17.5 engine hours for the 3650 miles since Cape Town – just two jerry cans of diesel. The event was put on by local sponsors and we all wore their purpose designed teeshirts, drank Caipirinhas, ate tasty local snack foods with shrimp and were entertained with a small live band and local Capoeira  dancers – based on the martial arts.

The last night at sea on Monday 1st brought the loom of Salvador from over 50 miles as we sailed gently to make landfall in daylight under dark grey clouds.  These thankfully brought us good wind for the final early morning approach with rows of skyscrapers and apartment blocks along the shoreline with beaches in front. We took the route inside the shoals passing close inshore and noticed one beach absolutely full of folk and sunshades at 07.00 hours – early morning exercise, carnival preparations ?? Crossing the finish line off the Barra light house at 8am Tuesday 2nd, we were soon rounding the 17th century Fort de Sao Marcelo to find our berth at the marina.  We are just inside the large Baia de Todos-os-Santos: 1200 square kilometers of potential cruising ground for us before we head north for Fortaleza.

It was amazing to be catapulted into the sheer busy-ness and vibrancy of pre carnival preparations here in this large city.  We are moored very near to the old heart – just  a ride up the Elevador Lacerda – with its historic buildings and churches. It’s still quite a culture shock for us even after several oceans and landfalls – this contrast to the solitude of our own 200 square miles of ocean.

We found a restaurant in the old town the first night.  Live music, bands passing down the streets practising and folk everywhere moving to the music – a good atmosphere.  David has been out two further evenings and witnessed the tightly packed crowds following the bands and the music – deafeningly loud from the trios electricos: fully fitted trucks with speakers,amps and performers – Glastonbury-like sound stages crawling through confined city streets. Also the pickpocket activity- he reckons a hand was in his pocket five times that he was aware of!  One skipper had his iphone snatched from his hand.  So all the warnings and advice given are being well heeded.

We have lunched twice at a business people’s buffet place nearby- since we are in the commercial district. You pay by the weight on your plate- a great concept, good value and tasty fresh food.  Local shops, chandlery and hardware have been sought out and fruit stalls found nearby.  Supermarkets are unfortunately a taxi ride away and we did our first run to Perini today.

Our genoa has been packed off to Eduardo the sailmaker for ‘stitch in time’ repairs to reinforcement patches, sun protection etc- he will not touch it until after Carnival next week but it is in the queue! Thankfully, no other major jobs required on Exody.

The official city tour today, Friday 5th, took us on foot through the characterful Pelourinho (old town) seeing a fantastically ornate church and much activity on the streets in final carnival preparations including costume making and fitting.  After two hours on foot, a most welcome air-conditioned bus took us on to view the city lake, the 2014 World Cup stadium and another church (there are supposed to be 365 in total here mostly catholic) where we were lucky to see a service in progress.

We find this large city of 3 million people really quite difficult to ‘read’ and navigate so I am pleased not to be trying to drive whilst here!  The street pattern is the exact opposite of gridiron- winding , snaking roads everywhere, reflecting perhaps the gradual incremental development and merging of communities over the hilly terrain.

Off to Brazil

Cape Town to St Helena: 6th to 16th January – 1700 miles

St Helena Stopover:  16th to 19th January

Setting off from St Helena this afternoon 19th January for Salvador Brazil, ETA 1/3rd February.

Its been a fascinating stopover here in this outpost of the UK – we’ve climbed Jacobs ladder 699 steps, snorkelled with a 7.5 metre whale shark, seen Napoleon’s house and tomb. Here are the nine logs posted on the worldcruising.com website.

 

Days 360-361 : Fast start to St Helena

The ‘enhanced’ south easterly trade winds, as they are delicately described in forecast, arrived on cue at about three in the morning, requiring two reefs to be taken in the pitch dark before Exody settled down again to a steady speed and course. Our first 24 hour run from the Leg 15 start yesterday Wednesday 6th at 11.00 was 174 miles – a creditable 7.25 knots.  We are now 130 miles off South Africa and have just over 1500 miles to run to St Helena.  The conditions are fairly robust, gusting well over 30 knots from behind and with more forecast, but Exody is taking it all in her stride. Today we have sunshine and clear blue skies so the the whitecaps all around are bright against the deep blue sea.  Hugur is sailing in parallel just 3 miles away with Allegro and Ayama within 10 miles.

For the first 12 hours out from Cape Town, we were close on the south westerly wind over very quiet seas taking the passage between Robben Island and  the mainland.  Views back to Table Mountain with her cloud ‘tablecloth’ and the low-lying sea fog were magical.  We saw whales at a distance and hope for more. Ten of our fleet started, one having ‘retired’ and the other three hopefully leaving later in the week once their technical issues are sorted. We were lucky to be waved off by one of the several young families of my South Africa relatives, the McIntosh clan. Bill and the girls brought freshly picked lychees from their farm – an appreciated addition to our bulging fruit hammocks.

Our new crew David is settling in but is yet to gain his ‘at sea’ appetite!  Like the several new crew members in the fleet, he’d probably rather a slightly gentler introduction to ocean crossings! For us it is good to be underway again and heading for a new continent after the two month South Africa stopover.

 

Day 362 – It’s cool when the keel hums

….. surfing down a wave at over 10 knots! Not sure if it is the horizontal aerofoil shape of Exody’s two metre span wing keel. Whatever, the regular wave surfing contributed to an exhilarating best equal (with ourselves) day’s run at 11am today, Thursday 8th, of 192 miles, an average of 8 knots- not quite achieving the magical 200 a day! The seas have quietened a little but we are still keeping watch either in waterproofs or down below and its fairly rolly. Waves come over the deck and very occasionally into the cockpit but all is dry in the cabins. Winds are still 25 knots plus and we are now under triple reefed main wing on wing with a single reefed poled out genny. Sailing at fifth in the fleet still in close company with Hugur, just in sight four miles ahead, with another clutch of the fleet within 15 miles behind.

On board, normality has resumed as it tends to after 48 hours of acclimatisation, when the sleep patterns and associated bodily rhythms are established! David is onto normal rations as of dinner last night and today we may even manage a cold beer or cider at lunch. At 25 degrees, its also warmer by 2 degrees on yesterday as we head northwest toward the equator.

 

Day 363 : Normal trade wind service resumed!

After nearly three days running before a near gale with gale force gusts (25 – 35 knots), this morning (Saturday 9th) brought much more relaxed 20 knot winds and associated quieter seas. Just as the trade winds should be – with clear blue cloudless skies to boot!  This South Atlantic crossing is billed as the one with the most reliably consistent trade winds so we hope these more pleasant conditions will now continue to St Helena, 1100 miles away and on to Salvador.  Even after shaking out two of the three reefs, we are still making over 7 knots. The day’s run to 11.00 this morning was 174 miles and by lunchtime we had passed the third way mark.  Three days in and we have finally lost Hugur from sight ahead of us – so we’ll have the ocean to ourselves we reckon for the next week! That is unless the fast late starters Garlix and Tulasi catch us up.

David made his debut in the galley last evening with a great prawn risotto.  It was planned to be enough for two sittings but sadly half of it slopped behind the cooker and onto the floor with a particularly heavy roll!  Lunchtime salads are creatively assembled, usually by Marian, around what needs using – today it was cauliflower (since the aroma in the cabin was distinct!), tomatoes, carrots, almonds, cucumber and raisins – a successful combination you could never plan for in advance!

 

Day 364- World ARC Anniversary

Yes it is a year to the day and over 19,000 incredible miles since we set off for Colombia from St Lucia on 10th January 2015! We are definitely on the home straight now back in the South Atlantic with our current course for St Helena also pointing almost directly to St Lucia only 4,600 miles away.

Another good day’s run of 185 miles in 20 knot winds and almost flat seas.  Hugur has come back into range this evening six miles ahead – unusual to be so close to another rally boat after 800 miles and over four days.  They invited us over for a movie night but we are not quite that close! Apart from that the ocean is empty – we have only seen four ships in as many days and no sea life other than flying fish and birds.

Marian transformed the overripe bananas into banana bread, I got stuck into a South African whodunnit and David investigated how we can optimise use of our technology. Exody hosted the radio net and otherwise life continues in the watch, eat, sleep routine.

 

Day 365 – Half way to St Helena

Dawn brought solid grey cloud this morning, Monday 11th, after we passed the halfway point in the early hours.  Winds are down to about 16 knots straight from the stern.  We are still progressing well, now under full sail, with a 170 mile day’s run and anticipating an ETA St Helena during Saturday. The sun broke through during the day and we enjoyed time in the completely dry and warm cockpit! Hatches and windows can now be opened whilst underway.

The Learning Brazilian Portugese Book is amongst the reading matter being devoured!

 

Days 366/367- Crescent Moon over Greenwich Meridian

On the first cloudless starlit night for days, we are treated soon after sunset today, Wednesday 13th, at about 9 pm to a bright crescent moon as we cross the Greenwich Meridian and start counting up our longitude westwards. It is seven and a half months and about 12,000 miles since we crossed the international dateline at 180 degrees east and west, half a world away by definition, on passage to Tonga. Another milestone on our track directly toward St Helena, 425 miles away, Exody wing on wing over a flat sea with enough wind, we hope, to get us in by nightfall Saturday. We have slowed over the last couple of days (runs of 164 miles and 150 miles) on account of the reducing winds but the sailing has been very pleasant. No ships or other boats or wildlife for at least four days now and we are getting used to our solitude!

We enjoyed our steaks – the last of the fresh meat last night and after tonight’s leftovers, the fishing line goes out tomorrow! The fruit and veg have lasted well with culinary creativity being tested daily to combine what’s left with cans and dried goods into tasty menus. David’s beetroot, gogi berry and goats cheese salad was a particular highlight yesterday!

 

Days 368/369 – Whale encounter on home straight

David and Marian were both showering when the characteristic Humpback fin and long back appeared less than two boat lengths away to port on a parallel course!  She (I’ll guess !)was close enough for me to see the underwater shading and shape but soon sounded only to reappear close to starboard.  David was soon out and we watched her surface straight ahead not showing much of herself, as she then overhauled us, her position indicated with more huge splashes and spray.

Today, Friday 15th, we have less than 24 hours to run and have had two reasonable day’s runs of 156 miles in the lighter trade winds.  The lead boats will arrive late tonight, early tomorrow and we’ll be in by mid afternoon. Exody was radio net controller today for the second time this leg and we managed a full role call with only one boat needing a ‘relay’.  Unlike other legs there is a notable dearth of radio chat!  I think this mainly because of the reception challenges we have encountered in just achieving a simple position report in the mornings and an ‘all is OK on board’ in the evenings!

The days continue to start very cloudy and to progressively improve such that by now (16.00 boat time), the sky is clear, the sun out and the sea sparkling.

The prospect of some land-based activities at St Helena and even potentially hotelling on shore are now eagerly anticipated!

 

Day 370 – Rhu Meridian and St Helena Landfall

At 03.12 this morning, by one definition at least we completed a circumnavigation, as we reached 4 degrees, 47 minutes west, the longitude of Rhu Marina on the Clyde 4350 miles north of our current position.  We left home waters from there exactly 18 months and about 26,000 miles ago.

At 09.00 through the morning cloud we made out the steep bulk of St Helena 25 miles away and we are now sailing in these remote UK waters with just 12 miles to run to Jamestown.  The texture and dramatic volcanic characteristics are now clear a few miles off in the bright sunshine with its top hat of puffy cloud and the visible scar of the new airport that will change the island’s unique cachet for ever.

 

Days 371-373 – Little England, Whale Sharks and 699 steps

Having arrived here at St Helena Saturday 16th at lunchtime, we are already
at sea again headed for Brazil after our stipulated 72 hour stopover at this fascinating place.

Half the size of Arran, St Helena has 4000 of a population with a fair chunk of expats, including Thais helping to build the new airport.  It is a steep-to dramatic volcanic island rising to 800 metres with resonances of remote St Kilda but then the 19th century Jamestown is more Channel Islands or Scillies, and the racially mixed population appear blended from a range of migrants.   All UK services are right here: HM Prison, Immigration, Customs and Police with familiar vehicles and uniforms.  The currency is sterling but specially minted for St Helena and Ascension.  It is a cash- only economy until ATM’s are demanded by the increasing visitor traffic the about-to-be-opened new airport assures. The commercial output of the island appears to be limited to frozen tuna, with most employment derived from UK funded public services.

We were moored to one of the 23 large buoys provided for visitors, a bit rolly though not uncomfortably so.  Access to shore is by water taxi only and requires some agile antics hanging onto ropes to leap on and off due to the omnipresent heavy swell at the jetty.  There were no late water taxis on Saturday night after our meal out at Annie’s Place so we joined three other World ARC crews, with Exody taking up the last two rooms at the charming Consulate Hotel.  We watched the passenger mail ship RMS St Helena loading on the morning of Sunday 17th- everything (including a medical evacuation of a premature infant) craned in a container or cage onto a motorised barge which then drives to the anchored ship for its load to be craned on board.

Colin drove us in his well worn open top 1929 Chevrolet jitney for our island day trip.  We have become used to steep roads up vertiginous slopes- these ones were netted to protect from the crumbling volcanic rockfall for the first few hundred metres.  But the barren landscape soon gave way as we climbed to a green and pleasant land with a mix of introduced trees including pine and eucalyptus, gently (and not so gently) rolling pastures with cattle grazing.  But for the occasional banana plant and cacti amongst the rich green foliage, this could be rural England, especially as the rain rolled in.  This fortuitously whilst we were indoors exploring Napoleon’s House, having walked to visit the unmarked tomb where he briefly lay before being repatriated to France.  We saw the virtually complete new airport – an impressive four year civil engineering feat that is still to be finally calibrated and certified before going operational in the spring.  The impact on the island of weekly flights from Johannesburg, and also potentially direct from Europe, will be interesting to observe!

Monday 18th saw me ashore early to the bank so as to be able to settle my weekend’s tabs and debts.  We also scouted out the several shops – predictably limited fruit and veg but otherwise well stocked.  Orchestrated by Makena, Craig took 14 of us out by boat to the north of the island to view and snorkel with whale sharks- an amazing experience- five at a time we jumped in and swam to within a few feet of this large (7.5 metre) plankton eating and hence harmless fish.  Related to our Scottish basking sharks with the characteristic flopping tail fin and apparently totally independent dorsal, these wide mouthed creatures are spectacular with their grid iron pattern of white spots.  Our guide Katy is researching their behaviour – some are satellite tagged and named. The day ended with a convivial barbecue at the Yacht Club where the hardworking officers of the club have made us most welcome.  All thirteen of the fleet were in port by mid afternoon.

Today Tuesday 19th, we climbed the 699 steps of Jacob’s Ladder elevating us steeply at 45 degrees to about 200 metres for a great view of the town , the surrounding mountains and out over the calm blue sea towards South America. Someone kindly gave us a lift back down the zig zag road to the hotel where our essential internet tasks were completed with coffee and scones – internet here is £6.60 per hour and skype appears barred – it clocks up fast! David checked out from his three nights ashore, we did our final shop and slipped the mooring at 15.00.

As I write at 11pm (same time zone as UK) we have only just lost the lights of St Helena behind us 40 miles away, and those of Garlix and Tulasi ahead – seven of the fleet left St Helena today.  The winds are forecast light for the coming week – 10 to 12 knots but we are making more than 5 knots over the calm seas.  The two thirds waxing moon appears to have dispersed the earlier cloudy sky and it is great to be sailing under the stars with visibility at night again!  We dined earlier on St Helena pork curried by Marian – so altogether it is already shaping up to be a fine passage after a fine stopover – only 1890 miles to go !